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Crochet Socks, Leg Warmers & Slippers Wearables

VANS Sk8tr Slip On Style Crochet Slippers | FREE crochet pattern for those who love Tunisian crochet

VANS Slippers

***Under Revision*** I’m in the process of updating this pattern and making it free online – if you happen to come across it, please check back in a day or two for the finished pattern***

Okay folks – I skate – not skateboards, but roller skates. I <3 VANS. I’ve seen several patterns out there for Converse, but only one for VANS and it wasn’t the style I like. So here we go!

For this pattern, you will learn to crochet these stitches and use these techniques:

  • Tunisian simple stitch (TSS)
  • TSS increase
  • TSS decrease (these are easier than they sound)
  • Surface stitch
  • joining with needle and yarn

The stitch guide is on the last page. The pattern is a little long, but that is because I wrote this pattern for those wanting to learn, and need help setting up the checkered pattern.  If you are advanced, you’ll understand the pattern flow. I’m always happy to answer questions! Please e-mail me at stardustgoldcrochet@gmail.com

***Sizing Adjustments***


+ Skill Level


Intermediate to Advanced – but if you are a newbie to Tunisian crochet, this is really the perfect pattern for you to up your skills!


+ Materials:


  • Suggested Yarn: I love this Cotton – in Black & White. If you want to change up the checkers, just choose the colors you prefer
  • Suggested Yarn Details: 100% Cotton, 3.5oz / 180 yds per skein
  • Yardage Needed: 2 skeins of white & 1 skein of black or any colors of your choice.
  • Hook Size: 4 mm (G) hook – I used a regular G hook, but you can use a Tunisian hook if you prefer. I recommend using an aluminum or steel Tunisian style hook, or a hook by Clover (they are sooo smooth.
  • Scissors
  • Darning Needle
  • Stitch Markets (at least 2)
  • Leather or Felt for Sole (optional)
  • Yarn Weight: Skill Level:

+ Pattern Notes – Please Read


Tips:

Tunisian simple stitch is a basic stitch.  Although it may feel intimidating at first, I have a feeling you will fall in love with this stitch. Tip to avoid curling is to keep your drawn-up loops loose, but maintain your gauge. The forward pass of the Tunisian stitch is where you perform your increases in the two top loops (same as you would for working a single crochet or other basic crochet stitch), please see stitch guide for directions on increasing.

Remember: to count your stitches. Only the base of the slipper is worked in Tunisian stitch. However, if you would like to work the base in single crochet, or half double crochet, you can do that too, by simply increasing when it calls for an increase, and working color changes. Although, the reason I used a Tunisian stitch for the sole is because other stitches create uncomfortable bumps, which make crochet slippers hard to wear. These are smooth, soft and comfortable.


+ Pattern:


Sole of Slipper – make 2

The entire sole is worked in Color A.

To start: Ch 5.                          

Row 1: Forward pass: TSS (*insert hook in next vertical bar, yo, pull up a loop* – repeat from * to * until you reach the end, insert hook around 2 bars of edge st, yo, pull up a loop) 1 TSS foward pass completed)Return pass: Complete a normal return pass. (yo, pull through 1 loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops, until 1 loop remains* – 1 return pass completed

Row 2: Forward Pass: TSSincrease between 1st and 2nd vertical bars, inc again between 4th bar, and the edge st (you should have 7 loops on hook after this forward pass). Return Pass: Complete a normal return pass. (6 sts)
This is not row 2, but indicates where to increase

note: for the remainder of the increase rows, make increases between 1st and 2nd vertical bars, and the last two vertical bars before edge stitch – remember, increases happen in the top two loops between the vertical bars.

Row 3: Forward pass: TSS making increases as stated in note above. (9 loops on hook)Return pass: Complete a normal return pass. (8 sts created)

Row 4: Repeat R3, (11 loops on hook after forward pass) (10 sts)

Row 5: Repeat R3, (13 loops on hook after forward pass) (12 sts)

Row 6: Forward pass: TSS. (no increases – 13 loops on hook after first pass)Return pass: Complete a normal return pass. (12 sts)

Row 7: Repeat R3, (15 loops on hook after first pass) (14 sts)

Rows 8 – 22 (15 rows total): Place a stitch market in the loop at the right-hand side of this row – after it is complete. Forward pass: TSS. (no increases – 15 loops on hook after first pass)Return pass: Complete a normal return pass. (14sts)

Rows 23: Forward pass: TSS. (increase in center of row. (16 loops on hook after first pass) Return pass: Complete a normal return pass. (15 sts) (move stitch marker to this row – after it is complete to help you count your rows)

Rows 24: Forward pass: TSS. (increase in center of row. (17 loops on hook after first pass)Return pass: Complete a normal return pass. (16 sts)

Rows 25: Forward pass: TSS. (no increases – 17 loops on hook after first pass) Return pass: Complete a normal return pass. (16 sts)

Rows 26 & 27: Repeat R24 (18 loops on hook) & R25. (17sts)

Rows 28 & 29: Repeat R24 (19 loops on hook) & R25. (18 sts)

Rows 30 & 31: Repeat R24 (20 loops on hook) & R25. (19 sts)

Rows 32: Forward Pass: TSS. (no increases – 20 loops on hook after first pass) Return pass: Complete a normal return pass. (19 sts)

Rows 33: Forward Pass: TSS. (no increases – 20 loops on hook after first pass) Return pass: Complete a normal return pass. (19 sts)

Row 34: (this is a decrease row – to decrease – insert hook under two vertical bars and pull up the loop) Forward pass: TSS. (Decrease by 1 in the center of the row – 19 loops on hook after first pass)Return pass: Complete a normal return pass. (18 sts) (move stitch marker to this row when complete)

Row 35: Repeat R34. (18 loops on first pass) (17 sts)

Row 36: Repeat R34. (17 loops on first pass) (16 sts)

How to Decrease by 2: Insert hook under two vertical bars, yo, draw up a loop. Insert hook under next two vertical bars, yo, draw up a loop)

Row 37: Forward pass: TSS. (Decrease by 2 in the center of the row – 15 loops on hook after first pass)Return pass: Complete a normal return pass. (14 sts)

Rows 38 – 41: Repeat 37 (13, 11, 9, 7 loops on hook after first pass) (12, 10, 8, 6 sts).

Row 42: Forward pass: TSS. (Decrease by 1 in the center of the row – 6 loops on hook after first pass)Return pass: Complete a normal return pass. (5 sts)

Row 43 *last row*: Forward pass: Decrease by 1 in center of the row – 5 loops on hook) (4 sts), do not cut yarn, begin working side.

REVERSE PASS????????

Begin working the side

Side R1: Work 1 sc in each of top 2 loops of each of the 4 sts from R43 (mark this first sc with st marker). Continue around left-hand side. (Top 4 sts + left side = 47 sts.) Continue around and work 1 sc in each of heel sts (= 4 sts, weave in tail while working these), continue working a 1 sc in each st along and up right-hand side of sole = 42 sts, join to first sc of row with sl st. Mark sl st with a st marker.

Side R2: Ch 2. dc 1 in front loop of each st across entire sole. (ch2 counts as first dc). Join with a sl st in the top of ch 2 from beg of row. (93 sts appx) – your st count should be as close to 93 as possible, but one or two off isn’t going to affect the pattern, so don’t fret if it is not exactly 93 sts).

Side R3               Ch 2. (ch 2 counts as dc, mark it with st marker after it is complete) dc in both loops in next st, and around entire row. Join with a sl st into st marker stitch. Cut a 20” tail, do not tie a knot, you will use this long tail to attach the top checkered piece. (93 sts).

Surface Stitch Siding
  • With black yarn, join yarn between any of the dc’s from side R3. Work a surface stitch through center of each dc from side R3. Join surface stitch to where you started the surface stitch. Don’t tie off. Cut, and pull yarn through loop, weave in tail. I usually work one extra simple stitch into where I began the simple stitch. It’s okay for

                                   the tension here to be a little tight, as it will make for a snugger side.

PAGE 4

Figure 2

Checkered Top of Slipper – make 2

The checkered rows will be worked with Tunisian simple stitch, changing colors from black to white to create the checker pattern. It is easy, and similar to single crochet color changing in mid-row.
Row 1                 ☐ Ch 5.

Forward pass: Complete as normal.

Reverse pass: Complete as normal. (4)

Row 2                 Forward pass: Increase between 2nd and 3rd vertical bars.

Reverse pass: Complete as normal. (6 loops on hook after first pass) (5 sts).

Row 3                 Forward pass: Increase between 3rd and 4th vertical bars.

Reverse pass: Complete as normal. (7 loops on hook after first

                                   pass) (6 sts).                                  

I hope you now understand how to increase and decrease a row with Tunisian simple stitch. In the following instructions I will only state the general location that is best to increase, we will begin the checkered pattern on Row 4. Each checkered box will be 3 bars wide, and 2 rows

PAGE 5

tall.  I’ll walk through the �irst few rows in detail, then simplify it once you get used to the pattern.

Row 4 – Checkering begins this row


  • Forward Pass: Work inc in both top loops between first bar and second vertical bars. (figure 3)

Figure 3

Insert hook in next vertical bar, draw up a loop (3 loops on hook)

(Figure 4).

Figure 4

PAGE 6

Insert hook in next vertical bar (Figure 5).

                                          Figure 7                                         

PAGE 7

Drop black yarn down and let it fall to the right-hand side of the work. Insert hook in next vertical bar, bring up white and draw through a loop (Figure 8).

Figure 8

Work inc in loops between the st you just made, and the last end st of the row (Figure 9).

Figure 9

PAGE 8

Insert hook in last st of row and draw up a loop. (9 loops on hook)

Ch 1. (Figure 10 – depicts completed first pass)

Figure 10

Reverse Pass: Working with white, draw back through, when you have one white loop, and one black loop on hook, pick up black and draw through the black bars. (Figure 11).

Figure 11

PAGE 9

When you have one black loop and one white loop on hook, carry white yarn over (leave it loose, the underside of the work will not be pretty…lol) draw through remaining loops. (Figures 12).

Figures 12

Row 5                 Forward Pass: Working with white, insert in first vertical bar and pull up a loop. Insert in next vertical bar and pull up a loop. (3 loops in white) Drop white.

Insert hook in next vertical bar, pull up loop using black. Work the next two vertical bars with black. Drop black.

Pull up white and complete forward pass. Ch 1. (Figure 13, completed row)

                                          Figure 13                                         

PAGE 10

Reverse Pass: Complete reverse pass. As we did with R4, when it’s time to change color, you will have one loop in one color and one in the other color. (9 loops on hook after first pass). (8 sts). (Figure 14

– indicates when to change color)
Row 6                 ☐

Figure 14

It’s time to increase and work next row of alternating checkers. Because the first three of this row are white. We need to make three black above it, and there is an inc at the beginning of the row.

This is how we work Row 6:

Forward Pass: Insert hook in top two bars, wrap black around hook and draw through to pull up a loop (that’s the increase). (Figure 15)

                                          Figure 15                                         

PAGE 11

Pull up next two loops using black. Drop black, pull up white, work next three bars in white. Drop white. Work next 2 bars with black. (Figure 16 – depicts where to insert hook for increase)

Figure 16

Inc in top loops between end st and current st. Drop black. (Figure 17 – depicts insertion of hook to make increase)

Figure 17

PAGE 12

Complete last end st with white. (11 loops on hook) Ch 1. (with white) (Figure 18 – depicts completed first pass).

Figure 18

Reverse Pass: Complete reverse pass, changing colors accordingly. (10 sts).

Row 7                 Forward Pass: White: Inc in top two loops between current st and next vertical bar. (Figure 19 – depicts where to work increase).

Figure 19

PAGE 13

Black: 3 bars. White: 3 bars. Black: 3 bars

White: inc as in previous rows, in top loops between current st and end st. (13 loops on hook), Ch 1. (Figure 20 – depicts completed first pass).

Figure 20

Reverse Pass: Complete reverse pass, changing colors accordingly. Except, complete last st of reverse pass with black. (12 sts). (Figure 21 – depicts completed row).

Figure 21

PAGE 14

Row 8                 Forward Pass: Black: Inc in top two loops between current st and next vertical bar, pull up loop in next vertical bar. (3 loops on hook) White: 3 bars, Black: 3 bars, White: 3 bars, Black: Work next vertical bar, inc between current and end st., work end st. Ch 1. (15 loops on hook). (Figure 22 – depicts completed first pass).

PAGE 15

Row 10               Forward pass: Drop black. White: Inc in top loops between working st and next vertical bar. Draw up through each of next two vertical bars. (Figure 23)

Figure 23

Black: 3 bars, White: 3 bars, Black: 3 bars, White: draw through each of next two bars, inc between current st and end st. Drop white. Complete last st with black. Ch 1. (17 loops on hook).

Reverse Pass: Complete reverse pass, changing colors accordingly. (16 sts). (Figure 24 – depicts completed row)

                                          Figure 24                                         

PAGE 16

Row 11               Forward pass: Start working with White: 3 bars. Black: 3 bars, White: 3 bars, Black: 3 bars, White: 3 bars, Black: work end st with black. Ch 1. (17 loops on hook)

Reverse pass: Complete reverse pass, changing colors accordingly (16 sts).

Row 12               ☐ This is an increase row:

Forward pass: WhiteInc in top loops between working st and next vertical bar (2 loops on hook). Black: 3 bars. White: 3 bars, Black: 3 bars, White: 3 bars, Black: 3 bars. White: inc in both loops between working st and end st. Work end st. Ch 1. (19 loops on hook)

Reverse pass: Complete reverse pass, changing colors accordingly (18 sts).

Row 13               ☐ No increases on this row.

Forward pass:  White:  1 bar / Black:  3 bars / White: 3 bars / Black: 3 bars / White: 3 bars / Black: 3 bars / White: 1 bar, and end st. Ch 1. (19 loops on hook)

Reverse pass: Complete reverse pass, changing colors accordingly,

except complete last st with Black. (18 sts).

Row 14               ☐ This is an increase row.

Forward pass: Black: inc, 1 bar (3 black loops on hook) /

White: 3 bars / Black: 3 bars / White: 3 bars / Black: 3 bars / White: 3 bars / Black: 1 bar, inc, work end bar. Ch 1. (21 loops on hook)

Reverse pass: Complete reverse pass, changing colors accordingly (20 sts).

Row 15               ☐ No increases on this row.

Forward pass: Black:  2 bars (3 black loops on hook)/ White: 3 bars / Black: 3 bars / White: 3 bars / Black: 3 bars / White: 3 bars / Black: 3 bars. Ch 1. (21 loops on hook)

Reverse pass: Complete reverse pass, changing colors accordingly,

except complete last st with white. (20 sts).

Row 16               ☐ This is a decrease row:

Forward pass: White: Insert hook in first two vertical bars and draw up a loop (tss2tog) / Black: 3 bars / White: 3 bars / Black: 3 bars / White: 3 bars / Black: 3 bars / White: tss2tog, work end st. Ch 1. (19 loops on hook)

Reverse pass: Complete reverse pass, changing colors accordingly.

                                   (18 sts).                                  

PAGE 17

Row 17               ☐ This is a decrease row:

Forward pass: White: Insert hook in first two vertical bars and draw up a loop (tss2tog), work next bar (3 loops on hook) / Black: 3 bars

/ White: 3 bars / Black: 3 / White: tss2tog, work next bar, work end st. Ch 1. (17 loops on hook)

Reverse pass: Complete reverse pass, changing colors accordingly. (16 sts)

Row 18               ☐ This is a decrease row:

Forward pass: Black: Insert hook in first two vertical bars and draw up a loop (tss2tog), work next 2 bars (4 loops on hook, 1 white, 3 black) / White: 3 bars / Black: 3 bars / White: 3 bars / Black: 2 bars, tss2tog / White: work end st. Ch 1.

Reverse pass: Complete reverse pass, changing colors accordingly.

Row 19               Forward pass: White: sl st in first vertical bar. sl st in second vertical bar / Black: 3 bars / White: 3 bars / Black: 3 bars / White: 1 bar. You’ll be skipping the last vertical bar and last end st. Ch 1. (11 loops on hook)

Reverse pass: Complete reverse pass, changing colors accordingly.

Work last st in black.

Row 20               ☐ Forward pass:

White: 3 bars / Black: 3 bars / White: 3 bars / Black: end st. Ch 1. (11 loops on hook)

Reverse pass: Complete reverse pass, changing colors accordingly.

Move marker to this row.

Row 21 – 25       Rep R20. (5 rows total) Work the colors in the checkered pattern, alternating checks every other row, and each check is 2 rows tall, and 3 sts wide. Cut both colors with a long tail. gently tie them

                                   together (loosely and only one time, to avoid making a bulky knot)

PAGE 18

Border for Top Piece

With right side facing you. Count from bottom of right-hand side of work up to row 15 – place a marker. Do the same on left-hand side of work. Attach black yarn in right side stitch marker, ch 1, and work a sc in each st around until you reach the other st marker. Cut a long tail, don’t tie, weave in invisibly.

PAGE 19

Heel – make 2

The heel is also checkered. Remember to work 3 sts in black, and 3 sts in white. I’ll walk you through the first few rows to set the foundation for the checker pattern.

White: Ch 21.

Row 1                 White: Work a normal forward and reverse pass. (20 sts)

Row 2                 ☐ This is a decrease row.

Forward pass: Work the tss2tog decreases at beginning and end of row. I will walk through the first row, to get your color pattern started. Work first bar tss, tss2tog (decrease by inserting hook under next two bars, and drawing up a loop), work tss in next bar (3 loops on hook) – insert hook under next bar, attach black and draw through a loop,

work next two bars in black. (3 black loops on hook – 3 white loops on hook) Work 3 white and 3 black to end of row. Decreasing in the last two vertical bars of the row. That should leave you with end st left, that you’ll work with the white. Ch 1. (19 loops on hook).

PAGE 20

Reverse pass: Complete reverse pass, changing colors accordingly. Change to black in last st of reverse pass. (18 sts).

Row 6                      Forward Pass: Drop white…pick up Black: work decrease in first two vertical bars. Work rest of row, decreasing in last two vertical bars (15 loops on hook)

Reverse pass: Work reverse pass, changing colors accordingly. (14

                                   sts)                                  

PAGE 21

Row 7                 Forward Pass: Black: work decrease in first two vertical bars. Work rest of row, tss2tog in last vertical bar and end st. Ch 1. (14 loops on hook).

Reverse Pass: Work reverse pass, changing colors accordingly, change to white in last st of reverse pass, leaving one white loop on hook (13 sts).

Row 8                      Forward Pass: White: work decrease in first two vertical bars.

Work rest of row, tss2tog through last vertical bar and end st. Ch 1. (12 loops on hook).

Reverse Pass: Work reverse pass, changing colors accordingly. (13 sts).

Row 9                 Forward Pass: Sl st in first vertical bar, sl st in next vertical bar. pull up next eight loops (you’ll still be working your color changes while you do this).  (you’ll be skipping the last vertical bar, and the last end stitch.). Ch 1.

PAGE 22

Reverse Pass: Work reverse pass. Cut a long tail (don’t tie a know, it bulks up the work), You’ll be able to weave the tails in when you work the border around the heel piece.

It may look a little funny, but we are going to work a border stitch that will make it all make sense.

PAGE 23

PAGE 24

Flip forward and align it with the sides of the sole and sides of soles overlapping the checkered piece. Attach by stitching underneath the top sts of the sides and the black surface stitch (indicated in blue below).

PAGE 25

The heel needs to be seated down into the base of the sole, inside the side border. Stitch along bottom of sole, and stitch side border to heel piece, along the top of the siding: Indicated in blue below.

PAGE 26

Attach white yarn in that space and ch 1. Work a sc in each st, (appx 10 sc’s) in back loop only.

PAGE 27

Continue hdc around top of each stitch (may be a little tough, but it doesn’t need to be perfect! just get as close to the top as possible and space them evenly.

When you reach the bottom of the heel, begin working dc’s in back loops, until you are appx 10 sts from the placed st marker. sc in those last 10 sts. Cut yarn, and weave in.

Side edges: Attach yarn in 4th sc from beginning of row – see photo. ch 3, work one dc in each of the next 6 sts in BLO, (7 total with chain included). Leave a long tail for weaving pieces together, cut yarn, and draw up and through loop, don’t make a knot. You will use the long tails to connect these dc’s to the top piece.

PAGE 28

Don’t turn work. Repeat this on opposite side, working in the back loops.

Use the long tails to attach these dc’s to the top piece, working from left to right. Do this on both sides. Then weave in tails. (arrow indicates direction to sew) Work the stitches behind the black border, and into the white checkers. Takes some maneuvering.

PAGE 29

Pinch together the side of the heel to the top of the side border. I used a stitch marker to indicate where to start stitching them together. Work into the top loops of both edges. and sew the hump that happens down, to minimize it. Do this on both sides, cut and weave in tails. Cut some felt, or leather and add a sole to top it off.

Download Pattern

Ravelry / Etsy

VANS graphic

 

VANs Pattern

The doggies photo bombed my shoot! lol.

VANs Pattern

They are very soft, made of 100% cotton.  Great for lounging and keep you warm.

IMG_2897

Thanks for visiting my page ❤.

❤ Tasha

~Inspire, Learn, Create

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