Crochet Calculators Crochet Design Tools

Crochet Design Tools – C2C Blanket Size Calculator will make you a C2C pro!

Ever wonder how big your C2C blanket will be? Me too!  So I came up with a calculation for that… 😉

We’ve all been there… the graph is 80 x 90 ~ 200 x 300 ~ 25 x 25 – but how BIG will that be?

The best way to figure it out is make a swatch, then do some math (ugggg).

With this calculator, you’ll still be making a swatch (but only a small one!) and I did the math for you (thank you Algebra 1B).

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Announcements

Thank you! Here is a coupon code for all written patterns in my Etsy store as a thank you to all my subscribers

Hi everyone!

First, I’d love to welcome all my new subscribers and say thank you for the overwhelming support and love from you all.  I’ve been working on creating patterns for a few years now, and it is only recently I’ve seen a surge in new subscribers.  It’s so worth it!

I 😍 crochet, I 😍 designing, and I 😍 everything about the crochet community I’ve come to know over the last few years.  It’s a group of wonderful people who share and learn from each other constantly.  Sometimes I find myself a little overwhelmed with how many designs and patterns there are out there, I want to make everything, crochet everything, and come up with new designs and techniques every day.  I only wish I could crochet at the speed of light right?!

Until recently, I mostly posted just my patterns and links to my patterns.  I’m working on creating some great content for you that will include guides to creating your own designs too.

In the meantime, I want to say thank you to all my old and new subscribers by offering $5.00 off 3 written patterns in Etsy store.

If you click the photo below it will take you to my Etsy store and apply the coupon code.  If it doesn’t work for some reason, the code is THANKYOUFB

Just add three patterns to your cart and it will take off $5.00 at check out!

Coupon is valid August 14 to August 21!

Feel free to share with your friends too ;).

It’s a steal! – because my patterns are already fairly inexpensive.  That’s intentional by the way… I want people of all income levels to be able to afford a written pattern and sometimes $7.00 is just too much to spend on a pattern, in my humble opinion.

I don’t sacrifice quality because the price is low.  My patterns are tested (thank you testers <3), and I try to make them easy to print, and include everything you need to create the pattern on your own.  I’m always available to help you work through the patterns too.

Thanks again everyone!

Subscribe to my blog or newsletter to get the latest updates on free patterns and tutorials

Upcoming pattern releases include a new easy market bag, a tank tee (summer isn’t over yet!) and leading into fall, I have a great new cozy hat design – oh yes and a few new ponchos coming your way!

Bags & Purses Crochet Free Crochet Patterns

More than a Market Bag – Free Crochet Tutorial & Crochet Video

I love all crochet bags, well…most of them!  Some can be too bulky or too loose.  I wanted to design a functional market bag – but more than market bag – with beautiful color changes and most importantly, durable.  A bag that you can take to the beach, the market, or on a long walk at the park.  A bag that will hold *all* the stuff and not let it fall out!

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Crochet Graphs

Rosie the Riveter Graph, C2C Written, Row by Row Written Graph, We Can Do It Blanket Pattern Crochet Blanket – Crochet Pattern

Rosie the Riveter is a symbol of strength and unity for women everywhere.  According to History.com

“Rosie the Riveter was the star of a campaign aimed at recruiting female workers for defense industries during World War II, and she became perhaps the most iconic image of working women. American women entered the workforce in unprecedented numbers during the war, as widespread male enlistment left gaping holes in the industrial labor force. Between 1940 and 1945, the female percentage of the U.S. workforce increased from 27 percent to nearly 37 percent, and by 1945 nearly one out of every four married women worked outside the home.”

Rosie The Riveter

I’ve always loved this image and wanted to create a graph I can make into an awesome throw.  This will be my next long term project after I finish the mini-spiderman throw for my grand baby 🙂 !  I spent a lot of care to make it as easy as possible (with only 10 colors) and also decided to create a written pattern for both C2C and row by row if you want to work the pattern in single, double, or half-double crochet.

Also included is a full grid graph, and close-ups of the graph, as well as 4 pages of a close-up the graph sectioned off for easier viewing.  The file is 14 pages.

You can find the full PDF version on Etsy by clicking the photo below.

Rosie The Riveter Thumbs

The graph is 85 x 109 stitches (color blocks).

I’ve made some yarn suggestions in the pattern, but you’re welcome to use whatever worsted weight yarn you’d like.

The pattern also includes detailed instructions on how to create a C2C blanket and links on how to make decreases.

Rosie Overlay.jpg

I would love to see your finished projects, links to my social media is located at the bottom of the last page :).

I’m always happy to help with patterns, so please don’t hesitate to contact me with any questions!

Happy crocheting

Tasha Signature

Write Your Own Blog - Tips & Tricks

10 Fastest Loading WordPress Themes – Blogging 101 – Website Woes – Choosing a Theme for Your Blog

I’ve been in web design madness…

Create a website they said….it would be easy they said… lol. 🤣
, for the most part it is, but some template designs can completely throw off your entire site!  That’s what happened to me yesterday – so I apologize if you visited my site and it looked like someone threw-up in code and called it a day.

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Crochet Free Crochet Patterns summer Video Tutorials Wearables

Neptune Beach Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

The inspiration for this beach dress came from a stitch I came up with using Tunisian crochet.  It was an accident actually, but I ended up falling in love with the stitch, and I’m calling it Tasha’s Tunisian Ribbing 😀 I wanted to create a tube top, but no other stitches out there gave me what I needed, so I made one up!  It creates a two-color vertical ribbing that is stretchy and easy to create.  Win!  I hope you enjoy this pattern and learn something new!

If you have any questions about this pattern, please leave a comment below – I’m happy to answer any questions!

An AD-free printable PDF is available on Etsy too!

Full Video Tutorial is at Bottom of Post <3

I would love to see your creations from this pattern, if you have Instagram, Facebook, or a blog, please use hashtag @stardustgoldcrochet #stardustgoldcrochet.  Thank you!  Let’s get started!  😉  Please read all notes!

How to Read This Pattern

I write my patterns for readability and make them beginner friendly.  The words in bold are stitches and actions.  Stitch counts are noted in the *notes* sections within the pattern and/or in parentheses at the end of each row. Remember to count your stitches 😉.

Materials:

Suggested Yarn:

Lion Brand Heartland in Denali, Pink, Green & Purple Print I Love This Cotton! Yarn.

Sub for Heartland – Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Pink

Sub For I love This Cotton – Any ombre yarn colorway of your choice preferably cotton.

Yarn Details:

Lion Brand Heartland Denali – 251yds (230m)

I Love This Cotton – 180 yds (164 m)

Yardage Needed:

Lion Brand Denali – 2-3 skeins (500-600 yds (457 – 548 m)). I love This Cotton – 1 skein (180 yds (164 m)).

Hook Size:

5.5 mm (I-9) – double ended Tunisian crochet hook, regular 5.5 mm (I-9)

 

Size(s):

S/M/L/XL/XXL – Customization – Size adjustments are within the pattern.

Finished Measurements for Large:

If you follow the pattern exactly – you will get a size large – you can adjust the tube top to fit your perfect size, instructions are within the pattern.  Adjusting the circumference will automatically adjust the size of the mesh portion of the dress, the length of the dress is completely up to you :). Tube Top – Height 7.5-8” (19-22 cm)  Width Around 22” (55.8 cm)  without the lace. (the tube top stretches, fyi) Lace Area on Top – 5” (15.2 cm) Length from Top to Bottom – adjustable

Abbreviations:

 

TRS – Tunisian Rib Stitch / TLS – Tunisian Long Stitch / MC – main color / CC – contrasting color / ch – chain / ch sp – chain space / st(s) – stitches / yo – yarn over / sc – single crochet / beg – beginning / fwd pass – forward pass / rvs pass – reverse pass / lp(s) – loop(s) / sk st – skip stitch / *…* *repeat* instructions between *…*

 

Stitch guide:

sc – single crochet insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw through both lps on hook dc – double crochet yo, insert hook in indicated st, *yo, draw through 2 loops* – repeat from * to * until you have one loop left on hook.

Special Stitches

TLS – Tunisian Long Stitch – see video if this sounds confusing. fwd pass:  pull up a long loop with current loop on hook (3/4 – 1” tall), *insert hook in next st, yo and pull up a long loop* – *repeat* to end. rvs pass:  *yo, draw through 2 loops* – repeat from * to * back to beg of row. TRS – Tunisian Rib Stitch chain desired amount for foundation chain (in multiples of 2 for this pattern) Foundation Forward Pass (MC):  *insert hook in top of next chain and pull up a loop* – repeat from * to * to end of chain.  Below is an example of what your first foundation forward pass will look like. Foundation Reverse Pass (CC):  you will add your CC when working this reverse pass for the foundation row.  Turn hook then add CC over hook and pull through one loop (below). Ch 1. *yo, draw CC through 2 loops* – repeat from * to * until you reach the end and have only 1 loop left on the hook.  Don’t turn hook. Fwd Pass (MC):  let CC drop behind, pick up MC with your finger, *insert hook in next front bar, yo with MC and draw up a loop* – repeat from * to * to end.  Turn hook (remember to work into the last edge stitch by inserting through the 2 loops at the end – photo below)  Count your loops too to make sure you are on the right track. Rvs Pass (CC):  Drop MC, pick up CC and ch 1, *yo, draw through 2 loops*  – repeat from * to * back to beg.

You can slide it down and wear it as a skirt too 😍

 

 

Pattern:

To start…

We will use a Tunisian technique to create ribbing for the tube top.  Don’t be afraid of Tunisian crochet – it is almost easier than some regular crochet stitches believe it or not.  Please refer to the tutorial video for help with this ribbing stitch.  I will do my best to write it out in a way you can create without watching the video too, along with photos below.  So let’s get started!

NoteChaining 28 to begin will make a tube top that is around 8” tall (20 cm).  If you want to make this shorter, chain an even number, that when you subtract 1, will create multiples of 3.  (use 22, or 16 chains to start to make it smaller or 33 to make it taller).

Row 1 Foundation fwd pass (C1):  Chain 28 compete the foundation row for the TRS located in the stitch guide under special stitches. Row 1 Foundation rvs pass (C1):  complete the reverse pass of the foundation row for the TRS located in the stitch guide under special stitches. Row 2:  complete fwd pass according to special stitch guide under TRS. Row 2:  complete rvs pass according to TRS in stitch guide. Row 3 – to desired width:  Repeat Row 2.

NoteThe lace portion of the pattern will increase the circumference by around 5”. Below, I’ve recommended widths for the ribbing stitches to get the size you need – once you add the lace pattern to the end of the ribbing pattern, the total circumference of the tube top will be the number below + 5″ (12 cm) The ribbing stretches, so keep that in mind when deciding how wide to make your tube top piece.

 

S – 18” (45 cm) – M – 20” (50 cm) –

 

L – 22” (55 cm)  XL –  24”  (60 cm) – XXL – 26” (66 cm)

 

 

 

Lace and Joining:

 

NoteMake sure when working the lace, you have multiples of 3 to work into or the pattern will not work out properly, I explained this earlier in the pattern for casting on your foundation chain.

Row 1:  Cut CC, tie off.  Pick up MC, and ch1sc in each gap between vertical bars of each stitch – mine totaled 27 sc’s. Row 2:  ch 3, turn.  sk 2, sc in next st, *ch 2, sk 2, sc in next st* – repeat from * to * to end of row. Row 3:  ch 1, sc in 1st st, *sc 2 in ch sp, sc in next sc* – repeat from * to * to end of row (should end with sc in last stitch) (27) Row 4 fwd pass:   (TLS) ch 2, turnpull up a long loop, insert hook in 1st sc and pull up a long loop in each st across (make loops an even height and about .75 – 1” (1.9 cm) tall). Row 4 rvs pass:  (TLS) yo, draw through one loop, *yo, draw through 2 loops* – repeat from * to * until you have only one loop left on hook. Row 5:  ch 1, sc between each pair of front and back vertical bars to end of row. (27) Row 8:  Repeat rows 2 through 5 – 3 more times times, on the 3rd repeat – end after you complete row 2.

 

Joining:

ch 1, bring sides together and slip stitch into the the two loops of each stitch.

Body of Dress:

Note:  Don’t cut your yarn.    

Rnd 1:  ch 3, sc in 1st  CC row, *ch 2, sc in next CC row* – repeat from * to * to end.  When you reach the lace portion of the dress, continue the repeat pattern from * to * in the top of each of those rows.  Join with sl st.

Rnd 2:  Ch 3sl st into 1st ch sp *ch 2, sc in next ch sp* – repeat from * to * to end of round

Join with sl st in 1st ch 2 from beg of rnd.  Mark beg st with st marker.

Rnd 3:  *ch 2, sc in next ch sp* – repeat from * to * to end of rnd.  Join with sl st at tbase of 1st ch 2 from beg of rnd.

Rnd 4:  ch 3, sc in 1st ch sp *ch 2, sc in next ch sp* – repeat from * to * to end of rnd.  Join with sl st in base of ch3 from beg of rnd.

Rnd 5:  ch 1, sl st in 1st ch sp.  ch 2, [*yo, insert hook in same ch sp, yo and pull up a loop* – repeat from * to * two more times, then yo pull through all loops on hook, ch 1]  – repeat from [ to ] to end of rnd.  Join with sl st in top of ch 2.

Rnd 6:  ch 3, *dc in ch sp, ch 1, sk 1* – repeat from * to * to end of rnd.    Join in ch sp from beg of rnd.

Rnd 7:  ch 3, *dc in top of dc from R6.  ch 1, sk 1* – repeat from * to * to end of rnd.  Join with sl st in ch 3 sp from beg of rnd.    

Rnd 8 – desired length:  Repeat round 7.

Congratulations!  You’re finished!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern!  If you love it, please share ;).  Any questions?  Please leave me a comment below, or just say hi!  Thanks so much for visiting my blog!

Happy Hooking,

 

Crochet Free Crochet Patterns summer Video Tutorials Wearables

Beach Inspired Friendship Bracelets – Free Crochet Tutorial Video

Well, we just got back from Neptune beach, and it was awesome!  If you haven’t been to Hanna Park – definitely check it out, it’s worth your time.

While we were there, I didn’t crochet much because we were playing in the water or skating most of the time, but I did come up with a little cute pattern for beach friendship bracelets – because it was so hard to not crochet at all for a week! 😊


pattern is so simple and fun, you can make a bunch in just a few a minutes!

I wanted to create something simple, easy, and fun to make.  These cute bracelets are the perfect summer project.  Probably great to teach a beginner too or a perfect project for a child crocheter 😉

I added some beads on the ends of the ties, and if you’re feeling ambitious, you can add more beads, or even a clasp and jump rings.

There is a full video tutorial at the end of the post – scroll down.

You can find the Ad-Free PDF Version Available HERE

WHAT YOU NEED:

Suggested Yarn:

Cashmere De Contone or any cotton DK weight (3)

colors:  0010, 0002, 0004, 0005, 0006, 0007

 

Yarn Details:

(10% Cashmere, 90% Cotton)

Hook Size:

4 mm (G) – or recommended hook for the yarn you are using Scissors Beads (optional) – I purchased the stars from Michael’s.

Sizing:

Pattern works in multiples of 4 + 3.  Using DK weight yarn with a 4 mm hook will result in a bracelet approximately 7″ long (excluding the ties and depending on your crochet tension).  Increase or reduce starting chain in multiples of 4 to increase or decrease size.

Abbreviations:

ch – chain / dc – double crochet / lsc – long single crochet / st – stitch / *repeat* – from * to *

Stitch guide:

lsc – long single crochet insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up loop to level of other stitches, yo, draw through both loops on hook. dc – double crochet yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw through 2 loops, yo, draw through 2 loops.

PATTERN:

The pattern below shows a double crochet crossing the other double crochets – ignore that!  Unless you *want* to work it like that, that is okay too.!  The long single crochet is what we work into the skipped stitch for this pattern (lsc).

**updated**

I realized yesterday that I completely left out the long single crochet stitch in the written pattern below – it’s fixed now!  Ooops!

To Start:

ch 34 + 3

Row 1:  dc in the 5th ch from hook.  dc in next 2 sts (total of 3 dc’s). go back to the 4th chain from beginning chain, and lsc in that st.  Then, *sk st, dc in next 3 sts, lsc in skipped st* – repeat from * to * to end of row. (You should have 2 ch’s left).  sk st, dc in last st of row.

Finishing:

Cut a long tail (about 5 inches) pull through and tie starting tail and ending tails together with a knot.

Embellishing:

You can add beads to the tail ends by first tying a small knot, add the bead, then tie another knot to secure the bead in place.

To add the star beads:  use some clear thread and sewing needle to attach them through the end where you tied the knots (kind of hiding the knots).

You’re finished!

See how easy that was???

For the full crochet tutorial, see video below.

Thanks for stopping by!

Crochet Free Crochet Patterns Video Tutorials Wearables

Dusty Sprinkles Scarf – Free Crochet Pattern

The inspiration for this scarf was to use up this these awesome sprinkle cakes yarn after I made my Kirra Cardigan (pattern here).  I wanted to create something easy to make.  A scarf with a twist!

I would love to see your finished patterns, if you have Instagram, Facebook, or a blog, please use hashtags – I’ll be keeping an eye out for these tags!  I like to surprise people with random of acts kindness in the form of gifts (free stuff!).  So if you tag it, don’t be suprised if I send you a DM!

#stardustgoldcrochet #dustysprinklesscarf

Thank you!  Let’s get started!

Full Video Tutorial at bottom of post

Get your AD-free printable PDF on Etsy – clicking the photo will take you there :).

I’m super excited to finally have this finished!  This scarf is very simple and uses a heavy weight yarn, which is perfect for beginners.  The name Dusty Sprinkles came to me because the yarn I used is Sprinkle Cakes – by Caron Yarnspirations.  It has tiny sprinkles of rainbow colors and the base of the yarn reminded me of a dust storm with the varying earth tones.  I absolutely love it.   If you don’t have this yarn, that is OKAY!  I also worked it up using Lion Brand’s Wool-Ease yarn in charcoal and that looks fabulous too!

There is a complete video tutorial for this scarf  at the end of the post, and the written version is available in my Etsy store and on Ravelry.  I hope you enjoy this easy pattern and tutorial.  If you have any questions – please comment below – I’m always happy to answer them if you get stuck!   Of course, if you notice a mistake, please let me know – because guess what?  We are all human and make mistakes – just keepin’ it real y’all!

Materials:

Suggested Yarn:

Scarf in photo is created using Caron Sprinkle Cakes in Mocha Rainbow

Yarn Details:

Caron Sprinkle Cakes – (77% acrylic / 20% Wool/ 3% other) (8.5oz / 240 g) (204 yds/186m).

Care:

Hand wash.  Lay flat to dry.

Yardage:

408 yd (372m) appx.

Hook Size:

8 mm (L-11)

Scissors

Darning Needle

Toggle Buttons (Optional) – 2″ (need 2)

Size(s):

Adjustable – Although I recommend following the pattern – you can adjust this to make it longer or shorter by adding or omitting rows – you can also adjust the width by reducing your foundation chain in multiples of 2.

Finished Measurements:

Using Caron Sprinkle Cakes (without tassels):

     Length –52” (177 cm)

     Width – 9” (22 cm)

Using Lion Brand Wool-Ease – in Charcoal

     Length –53” (177 cm)

     Width – 9” (22 cm)

Abbreviations

sc(s) – single crochet / st(s) – stitches / sl st – slip stitch / fsc – foundation single crochet /

ch – chain / ch sp – chain space / lp(s) – loops(s) / pinst – pineapple stitch / sk st – skip stitch   /  *…* – *repeat* instructions between *…*

Stitch guide

sc – single crochet

insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw through both lps on hook

special stitch

pinst – pineapple stitch

[*yo, insert hook in indicated stitch and pull up a loop*  – *repeat* 2 more times in indicated stich.  yo, pull through all loops on hook.  yo, pull through 1 loop, sk st.] – repeat between [ … ] for one complete pineapple stitch.

How to Read This Pattern

I write my patterns for readability and make them beginner friendly.  The words in bold are stitches and actions.  Stitch counts are in parentheses at the end of each row.

Remember to count your stitches 😉.

Instructions

To start…

We create a foundation row using the foundation single crochet stitch (fsc).  It is considered the first row because you are creating the chain and sc stitches at the same time.   The stitch guide has detailed instructions on how to work the fsc.

Row 1:  fsc 22.

Row 2:  ch2, turn.  *sk st, sc in next, ch 1* – *repeat* to end of row, ending with 1 sc in last st.  (22)

Row 3:  ch2, turnsk 1st st, *sc in chain space, ch 1, sk st* – *repeat* to end of row. ending with 1 sc in last ch sp of row.  (22)

Row 4:  ch2, turnsk 1st st, pinst the rest of the row – as follows = [*yo, insert hook in ch sp and pull up a loop*  – *repeat* 2 more times in same ch sp.  yo, pull through all loops on hook.  yo, pull through 1 loop, sk st.] [repeat] to end. (22)

Row 5:  ch1, turnsc in each st and top of each ch space across row.  (22)

Row 6 – Desired length:  repeat rows 2 – 5 until you reach desired length.  Don’t break yarn.  You will continue to use it in the braids.

Stop pattern at row 5 when you reach your desired length.  My scarf had 12 rows of the pineapples.

Braiding the Tails & Crocheting them together (Version 1):

How the braids are created in a nutshell:  The braid rows are worked by chaining 20, and working back through 19 stitches, joining to the main body, and working back up the stitches away from the body (hope that makes sense).

 Click here to view the tutorial video for this portion of the pattern. Remember:  do not break yarn.

Chain 20.

Row 1:  sc in second ch from hook and down toward the main body.  sk 1st st on main body, sl st in next st on main body. (19)

Row 2:  ch 1, turn.  fpsc around each of the 19 sc’s from R1. (19)

Row 3:  ch 1, turn.  fpsc around each of the fpsc’s from R1.  Don’t forget the last st 😊.

sk st on main body, sl st in next st on main body.  (19)

Row 4:  sl st in next st on main body, chain 20.

Row 5, 6, 7:  Repeat rows 1, 2, 3. (19)

Row 8:  sk st on main body, sl st in next st on main body.  chain 20.

Row 9, 10, 11:  Repeat rows 1, 2, 3. (19)

Row 12:  Repeat R8.

Row 13, 14, 15:  Repeat rows 1, 2, 3. (19)

For some reason – I seem to have an extra stitch at the end – If you end up with one – just sl st into it and tie off.

For other side of scarf.  Join yarn in right most side in first chain – not sc of the row, and ch 20.  Work row 1 as normal, but when you get to the main body, skip the first and second sc of the row and work the sl st into  3rd.  We worked into the chain on the side, because it leaves a better edge.

Repeat Rows 1 – 15 on the other end of the cowl.

Weave the 4 tails into the pattern shown below.  Then we will work the rows below to join the tails and attach the tassels:

The video tutorial also goes over how to work the tails into a braids and attach them.

Row 1:  Weave the tails like photo below:

With the right side facing you (right side is whichever side you like better).  We are going to label the braids 1, 2, 3, 4 counting from left to right.  Braid 4 should be on your right.  After you’ve weaved them together,  Place braid 3 on top of braid 2, and insert hook through right-most side, attach yarn, ch 1, work one sc into that space.  Work 3 more sc’s through both braids. (4 sc) total.  Place braid 4 on top of braid 3, and continue working 4 sc’s across the top through both braids.  Ch 3, turn (8 sc total).

Button Hole Row

Row 2:  sc 1 in 7th ch/st from hook (count down the chain and across the stitches).  sc in next st, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in last st of row.  Cut, and weave in tails.  You can customize the size of your button/tassel holes.  I used 2”

Repeat braiding and Rows 1 on other side of scarf:  except for the button hole Row 2 – just ch 1, turn, and sc across entire row.  Unless of course you’d like to add tassels to both ends of the scarf.  If you do, just create button hole rows on both sides.

Variation of tails & button holes

You can omit the tassels or create button holes on both sides and omit the buttons!  It’s up to you 😊.

Tassels and/or Toggles (optional):

I came up with a couple of variations for this scarf because I loved it!  Version 2 of the braided tails is as follows…

Braids (Version 2):

 

Note:  This version is worked in a similar fashion to version 1 by chaining up from the body except there are a few modifications.  Once you complete the body of the scarf –

Continue working with yarn, don’t cut it and…

Chain 20.

Row 1:  sc in 2nd chain from hook, and in ea st to end of row.  sk 1 st on main body, sl st in next st on main body.  ch 1, turn. (19)

Row 2:  sc in front horizontal bar of each sc in R1. ch 1, turn.

Row 3:  sc in each st of row. sk 1 st on main body, sl st in next st on main body.

Row 4:  Repeat R2.

Row 5:  Repeat R3.

Row 6:  Repeat R2.

Row 7:  Repeat R3, except at end of this row – sl st into first st on main body – do not skip a st.

Row 8sl st in next st on main body, Chain 20, Repeat R1.

Row 9:  Repeat R2.

Row 10:  Repeat R3.

Row 11:  Repeat R2

Row 12:  Repeat R3.

Row 13:  Repeat R2.

Row 14:  Repeat R3, except at end of this row – sl st into first st on main body – do not skip a st.

Row 15:  Chain 20Repeat R1.

Row 16:  Repeat R2.

Row 17:  Repeat R3.

Row 18:  Repeat R2.

Row 19:  Repeat R3, except at end of this row, sl    st into first st on main body – don’t skip a st.

Rows 20:  Repeat R2.

Row 21:  Repeat R3.

Repeat on other side of scarf:

Join yarn in right most side in beginning chain (not first sc) of the row, and chain 20 – you can leave out the button holes on one end where you will attach the buttons.

Braiding the Tails & Crocheting them together:

Insert hook in all three of the tails and attach yarn, working into the side at first, then crocheting them together (video tutorial is helpful for this).

Row 1:  sc 8 sts across the top of the tails – spaced as evenly as possible (it’s a little quirky, working into the ends, but it doesn’t have to be perfect!)

Row 2:  ch 1, turn.  sc in each st across row.

Row 3:  (button hole row – to omit the button hole, just sc across the entire row)  ch 1, turn, sc 1, ch 2, sk 2, sc 2, ch 2, sk 2, sc 1 in last st of row.

Congratulations!  You’re finished!

Check out the video tutorials below

Crochet DIY For the Home Free Crochet Patterns

Planned Pooling – Are you scared? Don’t be! Simple guide to planned pooling in crochet


Let’s talk about what planned pooling is.  Planned pooling is a style of crochet or knitting that involves a bit of counting, and strategically placing stitches so they create a pattern that ends up being a mix of argyle and plaid.   These are a few examples of plaid.

I think the reason it seems so confusing is because guessing which yarns will work for planned pooling seems daunting. It doesn’t have to be though!


Do you like videos? Me too!  Sooooooo……

I made a 12 minutes video that covers the basics of planned pooling.  It is at the end of this post, go check it out and please subscribe!


Choosing a Yarn

A few companies have embarked on creating yarns that are made for planned pooling, which makes it easier for sure!

A few of these yarns are listed here – from the blog Interweave and I’ve added a few more that I know work.

Worsted-Weight Acrylic

I Love This Cotton:Peony

Caron Simply Soft Paints:  Sunset Variegated

Lion Brand Yarns Vanna’s Choice:  Autumn Print, Charcoal Print

Red Heart Soft Yarn:  Greyscale

RED HEART Super Saver Yarn, Bright Mix: Earth & Sky, Mistletoe, Pink Camo, Zebra

Red Heart Yarn With Love 1816 Waterlily:  Fruit Punch

Universal Yarn Uptown Worsted:  First Down, Full Speed

Yarn Bee – Soft Secret Ombre’:  Whisper, Blueberry Hill

Worsted-Weight Acrylic Blend

Berroco Comfort:  Color 9830

Worsted-Weight Cotton Blend

Deborah Norville Cotton Soft Silk Multi Yarn-Stained Glass:  Stained Glass
Bulky Acrylic Yarns

Bernat Blanket – most colorways

Bernat Softee Chunky Ombre Yarn – (5) Bulky Chunky Gauge 100% Acrylic – 2.8 oz – Shadow – Machine Wash & Dry:  Shadow, Summerset Ombre

I must say, I am normally not a huge fan of variegated yarns.  They seem to take away from the being able to see the beautiful stitches crochet creates, and it seems somewhat useless to use it in projects meant to show of stitches (in my humble opinion).

I’ve changed my mind!  I love when my mind gets changed about something, it opens up a whole new world.  Soooooooo, I’ve changed my mind a bit with these yarns now that I’ve finally conquered planned pooling!  Just to give you a little insight on the difference between variegated yarns and ombre’ yarns, here are examples of both.

These are examples of variegated yarn:

These are examples of Ombre’ yarn.  You can see the difference in transition of colors.  It’s quite different from variegated. 

Let’s Get Down to Business!

Planned Pooling

I’ve laid out the basic steps and below that, we break it down further with TIPS on how to make your planned pooling project perfect.

Planned Pooling Step-by-Step – the Basics

1.  Find a yarn that works (we covered that a little above).

2.  Find the color sequence and write it down.

3.  Make a long chain that sequences through every color.

4.  Single crochet or Moss stitch back through the entire sequence (I’ll stress this throughout – tension is important – make sure both V’s of your stitches are the same color – more details below)

5.  Count the number of stitches in each color and write it down.

6.  Head over to this Planned Pooling Tool and enter your color sequence.  Then add or subtract stitches until you get a good argyle or plaid print.

7.  Print it out, and flip it upside down, because the top is actually the starting row.

8.  Begin crocheting.

Let’s break down the steps and start crocheting…

Step 1 – Find that yarn!

The first step is to find a variegated yarn that has 5-6 inches of each color change within the yarn – below is an example from the Vanna’s Choice – Charcoal.

Planned Pooling

You can use the yarns listed above to make it easier, or go in search of your own variegated yarns and maybe find a new one to add to the list!

Step 2 – Discover the sequence of the colors

This is somewhat easy to do, but can be a little confusing at first.  Normally variegated yarns are not dyed randomly, they have a sequence.  The yarn I used in the dishtowel is called Peony by I Love This Cotton.

I found an 8 color sequence consisting of 5 colors:

(1)  Dark green (2)  Light green (3)  Dark green (4)  Cream  (5)  Red  (6)  Turquoise  (7)  Red   (8)  Cream

Then the sequence repeats with dark green, light green, dark green, etc.

This is what my color pattern looked like for the Peony by I love This Cotton.  There is a little bit of purple at where the turquoise and reds meet, but I lumped that in with the stitch count for the red.

In another example, I used Vanna’s Choice, in Charcoal.  You can see below the sequence is pretty short.  With light grey, dark grey, black, then dark grey again.  So this sequence has 4 colors before it repeats.

(1)  Light grey  (2)  Dark Grey  (3)  Black  (4)  Dark Grey

Vanna's Choice Charcoal

Step 3 – Crochet a long chain

End the chain with the last color of the sequence, pull up a loop in the first color of the sequence (see arrow below).  For me, this was ending with dark green, and I pulled up one loop in the cream.  As you can see, there is some of tail left over because our sequence began with color 8 (cream) and ended with color 1 (dark green).


Step 4 – Single crochet or moss stitch back down the chain and count the number of stitches in each color.

Begin crocheting in single crochet or moss stitch, and count how many stitches each color will make.  For me, this was…

(4) Dark green, (4) Light green, (4) Dark green, (4) Cream, (4) Red, (3) Turquoise, (4) Red, (4) Cream

I used single crochet to learn this technique – but moss stitch looks great too.  If you decide to do a moss stitch – you need to make sure your stitches are an even count (2, 4, 6, etc.).

TIP:  Make sure the “V” of the last stitch of each color is the same – if you find that the right leg of the V is green and the left leg of the V is light green – rip it back and adjust your tension to get a complete stitch in the color you need, and the loop on the hook will be the next color.  Like this:

Write down your color sequence – the photo below is for Vanna’s Choice – Charcoal.

You can see above that the light grey has 8 stitches – each V of the stitch is grey.

When you finish crocheting back through your sequence, you’ll have a long tail.  Don’t worry about it for now, we will deal with that later!  It’s easy, just cut it and unravel it until you reach your first stitch of the row….then weave in the tail.

Planned Pooling

Step 5 – Use the Planned Pooling tool to find the number of stitches you will need to create the pattern.

In step 5, head on over to this Planned Pooling Tool and enter your color sequence.

Then add or subtract stitches (not the stitch count of your colors, but how long you need to make it in order to create the pattern) – It’s labeled “Stitches in Row.”

As you can see from the image above, the stitches in the row are 18.  If I began crocheting this pattern, it would end up looking like the photo above – so we need to add stitches by clicking the “1 stitch longer” or “5 stitch longer” button at the top of the page.  Do this until you get a good argyle or plaid print.

For me, the magic number was 46.

It’s a good idea to print this out.  When you do…flip it upside down.  The top part of this graphic is actually the the bottom row.


(If you’d like to use the pattern above, I used Peony by I Love This Cotton – this is what it looks like)

planned pooling


Here is an example of the pooling tool with the Vanna’s Choice in Charcoal.  The magic number for this one is 37.

TIP:  Whether you are making a scarf, a kitchen towel, pillow, or blanket – you can increase the stitch count to create the size you need for your project.  Of course, this will also take more yarn for larger projects, so make sure you use the same lots for this or your color stitch count or sequence may get messed up.

Here is a sample of what it would look like if I used 94 stitches!

Planned Pooling

Step 6 – Begin your project!

Now, continue crocheting down the chain until you reach the stitch count mapped out in the planned pooling tool.  You many need to rip it back and make a longer starting chain to depending how many stitches create your pattern.

My pattern called for 46 stitches in a row, so I crocheted 46 stitches.  I still had a bit of a tail left over. You can see below that I had to add a new skein mid-way.  If you end up needing to add a new skein, match up the color sequence then join, then continue with your pattern.

Planned Pooling

So, you may ask yourself….what do I do when I come to the end of a row and I’ve only crocheted 2 stitches of the color block?  Do not chain.  Just turn your work, then work the next st in the first stitch of the row.

For instance, if your color block is 5 stitches long, and you come to the end of the row and crocheted 3 of that color…you are short by 2, so just turn the work and finish the 2 stitches on the next row.  You are still completing 5 stitches in that color, but continuing it to the next row.  Tensionplays a role in this too.  See below for some tension tips.

TIP:  Do not chain 1 at the end of each row.  Just work back in the 1st st of the row.

MUST READ! – It’s all about the Tension

Tensionis perhaps the most important aspect of planned pooling, aside from basic counting! lol.  Tension, tension, tension.  You may need to loosen it or tighten it throughout the project to keep your color stitch count accurate and remember – you want to both V’s of the last stitch of the color block to be the same color and pull up a loop in the next color.

If you find that the last stitch of the V is in the next color, frog (frogging is ripping it back, aka ribbit ribbit – frog lol)  it back to the the last color and tighten your tension or loosen it to get all your V’s for that color to be consistent.

Baby Soft Pillow Free Pattern (Planned Pooling)

Baby Soft Planned Pooling Pillow

Okay!  So here is a fun project for you to get started.  If you’d like to make this pattern, I’ve already done the leg work for you.  Here is a link to the pattern from the planned pooling website:  Click Here, then print it out.

Front of Pillow – Planned Pooling Pattern:

Gauge:

Yarn:

Soft Secret by Yarn Bee – in colorway “Whisper” – Yardage= 1 skiein

Hook Size:

H hook (5.00 mm)

Pattern:

Follow this pattern (pictured below)

stitch counts are 49 stitches per row and 61 rows tall.

Back of Pillow Pattern: – Moss Stitch Variation

Gauge:

Yarn:

Soft Secret by Yarn Bee – in colorway “Ivory” – Yardage = 1 skein

Hook Size:

H hook (5.00 mm)

Pattern:

Chain 50.

Row 1:  sc in first st.  *ch 1, sc in next st* – repeat to end.

Row 2:  ch 1, turn.  sc in 1st ch sp.  *ch 1, sc in next ch sp* – repeat to end.

Rows 3 – end:  repeat Row 2 until you reach the same height as the front of pillow.

Depending on your gauge, it may be slightly small on the sides than the front of the pillow – I solved this by blocking them together so they match in size.

Block it – Let it sit over night to dry.

Remove the pins…

Place sides together…

Whip stitch or slip stitch sides together, leaving a hole big enough for stuffing.

Turn it inside out and add stuffing…

Sew it up…


You’re Finished!

I hope you enjoy this step-by-step guide to planned pooling today!  If I missed something, or you have a tip to add, please leave a comment – I will update it :).

I’m here to answer any questions too! If these videos don’t play on your browser – head over to my YouTube channel to view them. Stardust Gold Crochet Channel

Part 1 – Choosing the Right Yarns

 

Part 2 – Simple 12 Minute Tutorial on Planned Pooling


Happy Crocheting,

Crochet Crochet Tips & Tricks DIY Wearables

How to crochet a sock, anatomy of a sock ~ for beginners and designers

Recently, I endeavored to learn how to crochet a sock.  Through this endeavor I discovered just how difficult it was….there is nothing out there that told me how, and only patterns of finished socks.  That’s all fine and dandy, but I like to create my own designs! I love to dissect and break it down – most of all I want it simple and easy to follow.

Here is what I learned.

Socks have an anatomy.  I noticed there were varying versions depending on if someone is knitting or crocheting, but here is the gist of it.

Have you heard the term “top down” or “toe up?” Those are the directions you normally work a sock.  Have you heard the term “heel flap” or “heel turn?”  Here we will explore the two styles of working crochet socks from Cuff (Top) down and Toe-Up.  There are several ways to shape heels and I’ve included the various ways throughout both versions of the socks below.  Several can be applied to both directions, so I hope it isn’t too confusing.

If you want a fun pattern to make after you’ve learned to create socks, here is one I created called the Rainbow Fish Socks/ Booties.   Clicking the photos will take you to the pattern.

Let’s break these socks down…

 

Top (Cuff)-Down Crochet Sock:

The top-down version starts with the cuff, and works toward the toe. The order of working a top-down sock goes like this:  cuff, leg, heel, gusset, foot, toe.  Digging deeper…

Creating the Cuff

The cuff is the top few inches of the sock. You can use a ribbed pattern, or add a fun picot border to the top after the first row is worked.  I wrote a blog post that covers 5 simple ribbing patterns – here.  Explore and be creative. You want to measure the circumference of your leg where you want the cuff to land. i.e., below the knee, middle of the calf, above the knee, or around the ankle. Depending on where you choose depends on how you will work the leg of the sock and how many stitches you will begin with.  Remember that the cuff is normally a ribbing so it has a little stretch to it., but you can work a fancier stitch or a picot border for the cuff too.  After you complete your cuff, you will move on to the leg.

Transitioning to the Leg

The leg is self-explanatory – it is the region worked between the cuff and the heel/gusset, although working the heel often comes before working the gusset.  Designing a pattern for the leg is completely up to you.  Some people design cable patterns, others choose more simple designs like using single crochet or double crochet.  Here are a couple examples from Annie’s Crochet by Rohn Strong.  The red is a cable pattern and the one below is a pineapple pattern.

If you’d like to create these socks, you can order this book on Amazon here:

You can make the leg as long or as short as you would like.  For my Rainbow Fish booties, I used two different sizes and worked most of the leg using the diagonal lattice stitch, then I attached the cuff after that, working up again.

Although, traditionally, you will work the cuff, then the leg, and onto the heel, then the gusset….so let’s talk about different ways to shape a heel working from the top down.

TIP:  The calf is larger than the ankle region, so if you want your sock to fit properly, be sure to add increases the higher you go.  You can also use a stitch that has a little give to it.  Another way to achieve that is to work a ribbing pattern vertically instead of working in the round.

Different ways to shape a Heel

There are so many ways to shape a heel.  The socks I created here were created using simple back and forth rows called a short row heel, decreasing using sc2tog at the end and beginning of each row, then increasing by single crocheting 2 stitches in the same stitch and then sewing the sides together.

TIP:  Work your increase into the second stitch – it leaves a cleaner edge.

Other methods include creating a heel flap, that leads into a heel turn.    The photo below is knitted, but the idea is the same.  You can see how the heel is worked in rows, then the heel turn is where you make a number of decrease rows, then merge the ends together to form the heel.

The version in the photo above I find a little too complicated and not sure how I feel about how it looks, but that is what is great about all the different ways you can create them.  It’s your preference and the stitches you choose will make a big difference in the look and feel of your sock.

While designing the Rainbow Fish socks, I searched everywhere to find how to work a heel ~ again ~ nothing really laid it out.  As a designer, I just want to know how to create it and leave the stitch count up to me ya know? So let’s break down that too.

Top-down heels:

Single Crochet Heel Flap

This heel flap is worked in all single crochet with a heel turn.  The rows are worked without decreasing or with decreasing – it’s preference.  It’s a little confusing because with crochet there are so many different terms people use for the same thing.  Although, similar to the photo above, and when you reach the point of the project you’d like to make the heel turn is when you begin shaping the turn of the heel by decreasing.

To work this heel:

Count the number of stitches you have around the base of your leg.  Divide it in half and that is the number of stitches you will use to create your heel.  Let’s say 20 stitches.  When you are ready to create your heel (around mid ankle or just below the ankle) – Begin by working in rows from around mid ankle to mid ankle.  So you will create 20 single crochets (or whatever stitch you are using).  Chain 1, turn your work and work several rows in the same number of stitches.  When you reach the point you would like the curve to begin, that’s where you will begin to shape the heel by decreasing every row or every other row (decrease on both sides) until it shapes the round of the heel.  You join the decreased rows to the flap by sewing them together now – or later.  Begin working the gusset by using your stitch and going around the entire circumference.

Double/Single Crochet Heel Flap

This heel flap is created the same method heel flap above, but has alternating rows of single and double crochet and this one uses a heel turn too.

After-thought heel

The after-thought heel is added after you have created the sock. You will add the heel by attaching the yarn in the far most corner of your opening (more details on how to create this below).

Heels for toe-up or cuff-down:

Afterthought Heel (how to create the heel)

The afterthought heel is added after the rest of the sock is worked up.  Below is a photo from crochet designer Pam Daley.  These are yoga socks, but a great example of what your sock will look like before adding the afterthought heel.

To create a sock that has a hole for an afterthought heel – work the cuff and leg of the sock.  Again, count the number of stitches you have at the bottom of the leg, then divide it by two.  Don’t break yarn, but make a chain of that number.  Let’s say our stitch count was 40 – so we will create a stopping point, and chain 20.  Then skip 20 stitches below, in the 21st stitch, work your first stitch and continue working in rounds.  This will create a hole for you to add a heel later.

The easiest way to create an an afterthought heel is using the short-row style.  Attach the yarn in the far-most corner to begin your row.  The description below is the same as for working toe-up pattern so I copied it here, except for the afterthought you will be attaching the yarn to the opening instead of working straight off the leg.

Short-Row Heel

The short row heel (like I created for the Rainbow Fish pattern is a short-row heel).  The short-row heel is composed of stitches worked over half of the stitches of the entire foot section.  So if you have 30 stitches around for your foot, work 15 single crochets to start the base of your heel.  Then create rows decreasing at the beginning and end of each row, or every other row until you have about 7-10 stitches left.  Then chain and turn, work one row of single crochet, chain and turn, then work increase rows until you reach your starting stitch count (for this sample that would be 15).  You can stitch up the ends later….then move on to the gusset and leg.

Heel shaping:

Following a general pattern for shaping a heel, this is what one style looks like:

This pattern (just pretend there is a leg attached to the bottom lol), works the number of stitches you need for your heel (remember the formula – take the number of stitches in the bottom of your leg, and divide it by 2), chain and turn, then work your stitch across the row leaving the last two stitches unworked (see the left side of row 2 above).  Chain and turn, and repeating that until you have around six stitches (see the top row in the photo).  Cut the yarn.  “Right side” facing you, attach new yarn in the first unworked stitch (the photo above shows the attached yarn, I chained 1, and made 1 sc in next stitch), make your next stitch in the next unworked stitch, and in each unworked stitch up the pyramid, and across the top six stitches, then down the other side.  I hope that makes sense.  It will draw it in and create the heel shape (see photo below).  You can use this method on both top-down and toe-up socks as well as with the afterthought heel style.  This is just one way to create a heel, you can work another pyramid like this and piece it together to create one large heel.

Moving on to the gusset….

The Gusset & Instep area:

In knitting, this area is a little more prominent than what I’ve seen in crochet, the gusset is the few rows that attach to the heel over the top of the foot, but not yet reaching the middle of the foot.  The picture at the beginning of the blog gives a good idea of locating it. Although, also, in knitting, some people work an area called the instep.  For the socks I created, I used a simple top-down method with a simple heel, no instep or gusset per say and they fit amazing.

Foot

The foot area is the region you create after the heel and gussets are finished and you begin to work in the round “connecting” the two.  You then work the rounds until you reach your desired length, generally, about until you reach the base of your toes.

Toe

When you complete the foot region, begin your rounds with making decreases until you have a small slit opening, which you will sew together.  When you sew it together, turn your sock inside out, so the seam is on the inside.

And of course, when working the Toe up version is worked opposite, like this…there are aspects that cross over from toe-up and cuff-down.

Toe – Up Crochet Sock:

Start with the Toe

When you begin a sock with the toe, I must admit it takes a little more thought and planning.  Toe-up socks start by making a foundation chain measuring about 2-3″ (5-8cm), then working in rounds.  Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning and end of each round, so you can keep track of your increases.  For instance, you create a foundation chain.  work a row of single crochet in each chain (mark the last stitch).  Single crochet around the bottom side until you reach the beginning (place a stitch marker in that stitch).  Continue working your stitches around until you reach the next stitch marker and make two stitches in that place.  Replace the stitch marker in the first of those two stitches.  Continue around until you reach the next stitch marker and make two stitches in that place.  You get the gist of it?

Continue making rounds where the increases are made at each end where you place your stitch marker, and when it fits nicely around your toes, you stop increasing and begin working the “foot” area in rounds until you reach the gusset, or where you’d like the heel to start.

You can also make a toe using a method that looks like this:

This pattern starts off with a row of single crochet.  Measure around the widest part of your foot about the ball.  Then reduce that measurement a little to account for stretching.  Then work another single crochet row.

Then with each new row, single crochet across each row, but leave the last single crochet unworked (as seen in the photo above).  Continue like that until you have 6-10 stitches (depending on your size).  *Make a single crochet in the unworked stitch below (see photo above, it may be a few rows below, but don’t worry), then work a slip stitch into the side of the row below that.  Turn, and single crochet across to the other side* and repeat from * to *.  Repeat this pattern until the toe closes and it will look like this:

To the Foot

Once you complete the toe, you’ll begin working rounds to complete the foot.  Make it as long or as short as you’d like, but make sure it fits around and the right length.  The standard for women size 7 (39 euro) shoe is about 5″ (12cm).

Toe-up Heels:

Short-Row Heel

The short row heel (like I created for the Rainbow Fish pattern is a short-row heel).  The short-row heel is composed of stitches worked over half of the stitches of the entire foot section.  So if you have 30 stitches around for your foot, work 15 single crochets to start the base of your heel.  Then create rows decreasing at the beginning and end of each row, or every other row until you have about 7-10 stitches left.  Then chain and turn, work one row of single crochet, chain and turn, then work increase rows until you reach your starting stitch count (for this sample that would be 15).  You can stitch up the ends later….then move on to the gusset and leg.  You can also use any of the other heel methods lists as toe-up and cuff-down.

Gusset

The gusset area is where you draw the heel to the foot and begin working up.  The gusset for a crochet sock is just a few rows, but some people like to shape or tighten this area to fit.  It may require an increase or two to fit as this is the widest part of the foot.

Leg

As you work up the leg, you can work in rows or create interesting patterns or use a special stitch.  Be creative!  Just remember to increase accordingly if you decide to make a very tall sock that will go over your calf.  You can also use the ribbing styles below to create a vertical ribbing pattern as your leg of the sock and use a picot as a cuff!

Cuff

When you reach the length you want (you can create extra tall socks or over the knee socks too!) then begin working a cuff.  Here are a few ways to create crochet ribbing – you can use these or use front and back post crochet to create ridges too.  Picot stitches make for a fun edge too.  Again, be creative!  Click photo below to see the blog post about ribbing.

I hope you’ve learned something new today!  Please leave any comments or questions – I’m happy to answer as best I can.

Please share if you love it!

<3 Tasha

~Inspire, Learn, Create

 

 

4th of July Crochet Free Crochet Patterns Seasonal Wearables

Abby’s American Dream 4th of July Bikini – Free Crochet Bikini Pattern with Easy to Follow Instructions and Photo Tutorial

Abby's American Dream Bikini Pattern

It’s almost the 4th of July and you want a great bikini top to show your pride. :).  4th of July Bikini Crochet Tutorial.

Abby – I got you girl!  Tasha to the rescue!  p.s. – this is Abby and she’s pretty great.

I’ve created a few bikini patterns in the past and even had some inspiration photos laying around, so I set out to create a design for Abby that is:

1.  Supportive.  2.  Sturdy and durable   3. Colorful!

I hope you enjoy this pattern, it is definitely a beginner friendly pattern and easily adjustable.  I’ve written the pattern for a size DD top and size L bottom.  However, you can easily adjust the starting chain to modify to fit your body and I will walk you though how to do that.

Want a PDF ad-free version?  You can find that HERE. and on Etsy HERE

I’ve included stitch counts for medium and small in the pattern, for all but the border portion.  If you want to customize it further – follow these guidelines –  mind you – this is a general guide – and if you are like me and have a giant rear-end – well, I’d say increase the foundation row a bit to fit your coverage needs :).  For this pattern I used basically two triangles and a straight row in the center, which they don’t have pictured below, but it looks like this and these are the measurements for the Large/XL pattern.

Bikini Measurements
Materials:

Suggested Yarn:

Lily Sugar n’ Cream 100% Cotton (white, blue, red)

Here is a link to some good deals on Amazon for this yarn, or you can find them at your local Michael’s and Hobby Lobby too.

(click photo for link)

Details:

100% Cotton (2.5oz/70.9 g, 120yds/109m).

Care: Wash cold to maintain color.
Yardage Needed: 1 skein of Red & White 2 skeins of Blue. 200-300 yards total.
Hook Size: 5 mm (H)
Scissors
Darning Needle

size(s):  32A – 36DD, 38DD, 40DD, 42DD, 44DD

We focus on the cup size, the drawstring around the base of the breasts is flexible. Smaller cup sizes are within the pattern below, simply stop working the rows at a point you feel you want to stop to fit your size.

Abbreviations:

beg – beginning / fdc – foundation double crochet / hdc – foundation half double crochet hdc – half double crochet / st(s) – stitches(s) / ch(s) – chain / inc – increase / dec – decrease yo – yarn over / lp(s) – loop / R(s) – row(s) / sk st – skip stitch / sl st – slip stitch / *…*      *repeat* instructions between *…*

Stitch guide:

fdc – foundation double crochet

create a slip knot, ch 3, yo insert hook in first ch, *yo, pull up a loop, ch 1, yo, pull through 2 loops until one loop is left on hook* – repeat between*, except insert hook around both lps of ch 1.

hdc – half double crochet

yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw through all three loops on hook.

dc dec – double crochet decrease

yo, insert hook in indicated st. yo, draw up a lp, yo, draw through 2 lps.  yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a lp. yo draw through 2 lps, yo, draw through 3 lps on hook.

hdc dec – half double decrease

yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp.  yo, insert hook in next st, draw up a lp.  yo, draw through 5 lps on hook.

fhdc – foundation half double crochet

create a slip knot, ch 3, *yo, insert hook in first ch and draw up a loop. ch 1, yo, draw through all loops on hook.  repeat from * by inserting hook in two loops of the ch1 you made.

Pattern

Instructions:

To start…

We will create a foundation row using the foundation double crochet (fdc).  Tutorial, click here.  It is considered the first row because you are creating the chain and dc stitches at the same time.   The stitch guide has detailed instructions on how to work the fdc.

note:  carry tails for white and red rows, no need to cut the yarn – you will work a hdc border and hide them.

Abby's American Dream Crochet Bikini

 

Bikini Cups (make 2)

Row 1:  White – fdc26 (24, 22) (chain doesn’t count as a stitch)

Row 2:  White – ch 1, turn. hdc26 (24, 22).

Row 3:  Red – ch 2, dc (blo) entire row make 1dec at beg and 1 dec at end. (24) (22, 20)

Row 4:  Red – ch 1, turn. hdc entire row, make 1dec at beg and 1 dec at end. (22) (20, 18).

Row 5:  White – ch 2, turndc (blo) entire row. (22) (18, 16)

Row 6:  White – ch 1, turn, hdc entire row make 1dec at beg and 1 dec at end. (20) (16, 14)

Row 7:  Red – ch 2, turndc (blo) entire row.  make 1dec at beg and 1 dec at end. (18) (14, 12)

Row 8:  Red, ch 1, turnhdc entire row, make 1dec at beg and 1 dec at end. (16) (12, 10)

Row 9:  White – Repeat7. (14) (10, 8)

Row 10:  White- Repeat 8. (12) (8, 6)

Row 11:  Red- Repeat 7. (10) (6, 4)

Row 12:  Red – Repeat 8. (8) (4) small: for small, don’t repeat 8, just skip to Row 15. (2).

Row 13:  White – Repeat 7. (6) medium:  for medium, don’t repeat 7, skip to Row 15, but complete it in white. (2).

Row 14:  White – Repeat8. (4)

Row 15:  Red – make 2 decreases (2).  leave long tails for weaving in and cut.

Blue Border:

note:  Stitch counts listed are for DD – if you are making the medium or small they will be different, but still follow the pattern as best you can.

for Row 1 of border, you’ll be making 4 hdc into edge each color, when you reach the 4th hdc of the series of 4, work into the carried yarn and not the actual hdc st, it creates less of a gap that way.  Stitch counts are in parentheses throughout R1 to keep you on track.

With RS facing you (RS has the ridges and the starting tail is on your bottom right-hand side)  Attach blue yarn in hole where beg tail is.

photo shows “Right Side”  – RS

Abby's American Dream Crochet Bikini

Abby's American Dream Crochet Bikini

Border Row 1ch 2, hdc1 in bottom of ch.  make 4 hdc spaced evenly across the end of each color row (28). see photo below

Abby's American Dream Crochet Bikini

hdc 2 in side of last Red row. (30) Abby's American Dream Crochet Bikini dc2 in next st, dc2 dc in next st, (34) now working down the other side – hdc2 in side of red row (36) and 4hdc in each side of each color like before. (64). hdc3 in corner (as seen below) (57). Abby's American Dream Crochet Bikini Continue working round along bottom side along R1 of Cup – hdc2 in each st across until you reach corner. (50) hdc3 in corner, join (3). Abby's American Dream Crochet Bikini Border Row 2ch 1, hdc31, hdc3 in ch space between two top dc, hdc 32slst in 1st  & 2nd hdc’s from the hdc 3 cluster in the corner. Border Row 3ch 1, hdc in next st, *sk 3, hdc in 4th st* – *repeat* 13 times (for medium and small – repeat to end as best you can).   slst in next st, and 1slst in ch 1 from beg.  join in top loops of 1st stitch of R2. cut, tie off, and weave in all tails.

Bikini Bottom

Row 1fhdc34 (32, 30).  fhdc tutorial, click here. Row 2ch 1, turn, hdc entire row dec by 1 at beg and dec by 1 at end of row. (32) (30, 28). Rows 3 – 14repeatRow2 (12 more times for a total of 14 rows, st count will decrease by 2 each row).  Stitch count at the end of row 14 should be (8) for all sizes – so for medium and small – stop working the decreases when you reach 8 sts.  You can make this wider too if you’d like to 10 sts, just stop decreasing when you reach 10 sts. Rows 15 – 20ch 1, turnhdc entire row. (8) (8, 8) Row 21ch 1, turnincby1 at beg of row, hdc in each stitch and inc by 1 at end of row (10) (10, 10). Rows 22 – 42repeatRow21, ending row stitch count should be (52) (50, 48).  

Finishing it off

For the bottoms – I created two very long braids of the three colors and thread them through.

Thread them like this for security:

For the bottom of the top drawstring – I chained using white, a chain long enough to go around your rib-cage, plus more for tying and weaved it through.

For the top of the triangles – I chained about 200 chains, then thread them through the top, I made it so there is one solid string, and then the tie, because it’s meant for a big chest 😉.  Heavy weights.

Abby's American Dream Crochet Bikini

There you go!  It’s complete.  I was thinking of adding a star on the back side and front side too 😉. 

Abby's American Dream Crochet Bikini

Congratulations!  You’re finished!

Happy Crocheting 😊

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Abby's American Dream Bikini Pattern

Crochet Wearables

The Kirra Cardi ~ Hooded Cardigan ~ A great Project for the Ambitious Crochet Beginner

The inspiration for this came from my beautiful niece Kirra, she has blonde hair and when she held this yarn next to her, it all just came out! I wanted to create something like 1975 say hello to 2018, and it’s teen approved!

You can find it here on Etsy
I hope you enjoy creating this cardigan, and learn something new in the process.  The pattern contains a companion video to help you work the more complicated rows and you can find that link within the pattern.Kirra Cardi I’m always here to help if you get stuck!  Please don’t hesitate to message me with any questions.  I want to help you learn new techniques and spread the joy of crochet – it’s called *joy* for a reason – crochet is a way to relax.  I understand it can be frustrating learning new things, but that’s why I’m here – to help you learn and inspire you to create. I would absolutely <3 love <3 to see your finished cardigans, if you have Instagram, Facebook, or a blog, please use hashtag #stardustgoldcrochet so I can see them :). Oh yes, and please read all the notes in the pattern, they are there for a reason ;).

SKILL LEVEL:

Intermediate – but if you are an ambitious beginner – this pattern is for you!  It is mostly basic stitches, but I threw in a few front post stitches to add some texture.  If you have any trouble with those, don’t worry, I created a full video tutorial to help you work the pattern.  You can find the link inside the pattern.

MATERIALS:

 

Yarn:  Caron Yarnspirations Sprinkle Cakes – Super Bulky (5-6 wpi) in Pecan Fudge.  These are sale for $5.49 each (a steal!) – each cake contains 204 yards.  Here are a few other great substitutions in bulky 6 weight (clicking on photos will take you where you want to be):

 

Caron Tea Cakes:

 

Lion Brand’s Hometown is a great bulky weight yarn with awesome colors too:

 

Bernat Softee Chunky has a 3 skein bundle here:

 

Kirra Cardi Yarn

 

Care:

Hand wash, lay flat to dry.

Fiber:

77% Acrylic, 20% Wool, 3% Other Fiber

Yardage needed:

800-1000 yards – I used 6 cakes total, with plenty left over. Although my testers used one color yarn and they only used around 800 yards. Hook:  10 mm (N/P-15) hook Scissors Darning Needle Stitch marker(s) Toggle Buttons (optional)

I hope you enjoy this pattern! Please tag me or make a project so I can see what lovely colors you all come up with! <3

<3 Tasha

~Inspire, Learn, Create

 

Crochet Wearables

Navajo Blanket Cardigan ~ Crochet Pattern for Beginners

Navajo Blanket Cardigan

The inspiration for this pattern was to challenge myself and to create a cozy warm PLUS sized cardigan that looked kinda hippy, but could also dress up nice too.  I also love the Navajo style blankets, and even though this doesn’t have traditional Navajo patterns, someone said it reminded them of a Navajo blanket, so I said Yes!  Hence, the name ;).

I also wanted to make a project easy for a beginner to follow, so don’t be afraid!  You can work this pattern :).  The details on the pattern are below.

2018-03-08 16.49.03

SKILL LEVEL:

Beginner – this pattern contains only basic stitches. Piecing it together is easy and there is a full color photo tutorial to help you.

MATERIALS:

Yarn: All colors in sample are Yarn Bee Soft Secret (6oz/170g – 300 yds/275m)
C1 – Ivory/ C2 – Blue Teal/ C3 – Cocoa/ C4 – Cognac/ C5 – Burgundy

Yardage needed: Pattern uses 2 full skeins of cocoa – with a little more of third skein. You only need one skein of each of the other colors and you will have leftovers for those colors unless you choose to make it larger.

Hooks: 6mm (J) hook (main body), 5.5 mm (I) hook (sleeves)
Scissors
Darning Needle
Stitch marker(s)
2 Buttons (1.5 – 2”)

DOWNLOADS AVAILABLE ON ETSY AND RAVELRY – CLICK PHOTOS

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Notes
When Crystal was testing this pattern, her gauge was tighter than mine, and her cardigan ended up being shorter compared to mine. I worked very loosely for this pattern. So make sure the gauge matches or you will need to modify your size, or increase your needles to make it match. The cardigan is meant to be loose and flow, but ultimately, this is yours to do with what you please ;). lol.

ravelry promo box.jpg

Navajo Blanket Cardigan

Also, the sleeves are fairly long. I like long sleeves, and the cuff is able to fold up nicely too. If you want shorter sleeves, I recommend removing rows closest to the top of the sleeve. There are more detailed instructions on how to do this inside the pattern :).

I hope you enjoy this pattern! Please tag me or make a project so I can see what lovely colors you all come up with! <3

<3 Tasha

~Inspire, Learn, Create

Navajo Blanket Cardigan

2018-02-26 17.09.14

Babies & Kids Crochet Free Crochet Patterns

Elvis Aloha Hawaii Baby Onesie Jumpsuit Crochet Pattern – Free Crochet Pattern


Y’all – I saw this post floating around the other day of a little baby dressed up in a crochet Elvis jumpsuit! I went to search high and low for a pattern and I’ll be damned – I couldn’t find one. I thought surely there has to be one out there!

There wasn’t!  So I just had to whip one up.  I really hope you enjoy this cute pattern.  If you love this, please share with a friend (sharing is caring) <3.

One of my customers finished her pattern and sent me this picture today!  It’s so adorable, I’m dying!  <3 <3 <3

Here is a version one of my testers made.  Isn’t it cute!?  Keep in mind, the pattern is written for a newborn – so it is small – the video describes how and where to make increases for larger babies :).

Elvis Onsie Crochet

Full Ad Free printable version of this is available on Etsy, click below to get your PDF.

Click photo to download

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

Suggested yarn:  I used 100% Cotton in I Love This Cotton from Hobby Lobby, but Lion brand makes a great cotton too called 24/7 cotton – you can find that here on Amazon for $4.66 – that’s a discount!

Yardage:

This took about a little over 1 skein, so about 220 yards in I love this Cotton – Lion Brand 24/7 has 186 yards (170m) per skein, so you will need more if you use this yarn.

Sizing:

The pattern is written for newborn – with instructions on how to size for 1 – 2 months, 3 – 6 months & 7 – 12 months!

Difficulty:

EASY – BEGINNER!!

Yarn Weight:

Measurements:

If you follow the pattern – measurements are:
Length: 15” (38cm)
Arms: L 4.5-5” (12cm-13cm)
Legs: L 5” (13cm)
Belt: L 16.5” (42cm)

Of course, making increases will change the measurements.

 

The PDF includes two files – one with photos and one with just written instructions.

I’m happy to help with any questions, please leave a comment here and I’ll do my best to help you work the pattern.

This was super fun to make and fairly fast too!  I found some jewels my daughter had laying around and used them to embellish it a bit.  You can get creative and do what you want! <3.

Full Ad Free printable version of this is available on Etsy, click below to get your PDF.

Click photo to download

Pattern

Abbreviations

sc single crochet
dc double crochet
fsc foundation single crochet
fdc foundation double crochet
st(s) st(s)
ch chain
st stitch
*…* *crochet instructions between asterisk* repeated as many times as indicated

Stitch Guide

sc – single crochet

insert hook in indicated stitch,

yo, draw through 2 loops.

dc – double crochet

yo, insert hook in indicated stitch,

yo, draw through 2 loops.

yo, draw through all loops on hook.

fsc – foundation single crochet

to start: ch 2.  insert hook in first chain,

yo, draw up a loop, ch 1.

yo, draw through all loops on hook.

second stitch:  insert hook in both bottom loops of ch 1, yo, draw up a loop, ch 1, yo, draw through both loops on hook.

fdc – foundation double crochet

to start:  ch 3, yo, insert hook in first chain,

yo, draw up a loop.  ch 1, yo draw through 2 loops.

yo, draw through all loops on hook.

second stitch:  yo, insert hook in both bottom loops of ch 1, yo, draw up a loop, ch 1, yo, draw through 2 loops, yo, draw through all loops on hook.

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Tips

  • Pattern is worked pieces and sewn together. Main body, legs, arms, belt and belt buckle.
  • Leave long tails for help with weaving in and sewing pieces together.
  • Embellishments are your preference suggestions at end of pattern 😊.

Instructions

***

Chains do not count as stitches.  dc’s are made in same as ch space.  Joins are made in first dc of round (not chain).  Decreases – space them evenly on decrease rows.

Use I hook – unless otherwise indicated.

Up-sizing for Legs:

To make larger and taller, add 2-6 stitches to the foundation chain for width, and 2 to 6 rows on round 2 to increase height

***

Legs (make 2):

Rnd 1:                  fdc 27, join.

Rnd 2:                  ch 2, dc entire round, join (26)

Rnd 3:                  Repeat 2.

Rnd 4:                  ch 2, dc entire round dec 4 times, join.

Rnd 5:                  Repeat 4.

Rnd 6:                  ch 2, dc entire round, join

Rnd 7-8:              Repeat 6.

Cut and weave in tails you will join later using a different technique.

 

Arms (make 2):

Up-sizing for Arms:

To make wider and longer, add 2-6 stitches to the foundation chain for width, and 2 to 6 rows on round 2 to increase length.

 

Rnd 1:                    fdc 18, join.

Rnds 2 -5:             ch 2, dc entire round, join.

Rnds 6 – 8:            H Hook – ch 2, dc entire round, join.

Leave 10”-12” tail for weaving arms to body.

Body:

Sizing:

To make wider and longer, add 2-6 sts to the foundation chain for width, and 2 to 6 rows on round 2 to increase length.

Row 1:                   fdc 46.

Row 2:                   ch 2, turn, dc entire row.

Rows 3 -9:            Repeat 2.

Front side 1:

***

After finishing the body, don’t cut yarn, continuing working your first side as follows.

Count 13 stitches in from each end of body and place stitch marker in the 13 stitch (this count will vary if you made this garment wider – if you modified the size, lay the body flat, fold both sides into the center.  Mark the folds with stitch markers on both sides.  This is where you will begin to attach the legs on either sides)

Sizing:

If you increased the width, you will need to modify where you place your stitch markers.  Counts will vary.  The front side 1 & 2 will rely on your increases

***

Rows 10 – 17:            Ch 2, turndc 12.

Break yarn and weave in tails.

Full Ad Free printable version of this is available on Etsy, click below to get your PDF.

Click photo to download

Center:

***

After completing one side – insert hook into stitch marker, join yarn, ch 2 and turn.  Work first row all the way over to second stitch marker, remove marker and work stitch into that space, you’ve now completed row 10.

***

Row 11 – 17:                dc 22, ch 2, turn.

Front side 2:

***

Insert hook in stitch closest to where the center piece ends, join yarn and chain 2 (for the following rows, chain 2 and turn at the beginning of each row – of course 😉.)

***

Rows 10 – 17:            dc 12 in each row.

This is what it should like

Torso & Attaching Legs:

video help here: https://youtu.be/Zq5YocpgkbY

***

With H hook and bottom up (side with no slits) insert hook in top loop of first dc on *your* right (while looking at it), join yarn and chain 2).

***

Row 1:  dc 12.  Then in the 13th stitch (or approximately where if you follow the V down and it meets the bottom), attach the leg by completing the last step of the dc by inserting the hook through the top two loops of the leg stitch, and drawing back through *all* the loops on the hook.  Repeat that for 8 sts of the leg. (meaning, you begin your dc stitch by yo, inserting hook into body, yo draw through two, insert hook into top two loops of leg, yo, draw through all loops on hook).

***

If you made your legs wider, these counts will be off slightly.  Work the join until your leg lays flat with the body.

***

Continue row with dc’s in next 7 sts (or however many you need to make these leg joins even).  In the 8th stitch, begin attaching leg.  Work 8 joins by repeating how we did it for the other leg, which is dc’ing into each stitch and completing the last step of the dc by inserting hook into top two loops of leg stitch, yo and draw back through *all* loops on hook.  To finish this row, complete last 12 sts in dc.

To complete attaching legs to front of suit – fold over right and left pieces until they meet in the center (see video for help on this) long link- https://youtu.be/Zq5YocpgkbY 

Whip stitch the front pieces to the front of the legs

Attaching Arms:

Whip stitch V opening together from top of garment down (see video).  To get an idea of where, place the bottom of your sleeve at the base of the V opening.  Mark the top of where the sleeve meets, and stitch down to that point.  You can break off yarn, or continue with it and use that yarn to attach the rest of the sleeve.  Repeat for both sides.

Belt:

***Belt has a button hole to bring it together.***

Sizing:

To make wider and longer, add 2-6 sts to the foundation chain for width, and 2 to 6 rows on rows to increase length.

Row 1:                 fsc 51, ch 1, turn.

Row 2:                 sc entire row, ch 1, turn.

Row 3:                 sc 3, ch 2, sk 2, sc rest of row, ch 1, turn.

Row 4:                 sc entire row.

Edging:                ch 1, sc around to beg, join.

Buckle:

***Sew buckle to belt just beyond button hole***

Sizing:

To make wider and longer, add 2-6 sts to the foundation chain for width, and 2 to 6 rows on rows to increase length.

Row 1:                 fsc 14, ch 1, turn.

Row 2:                 sc entire row, ch 1, turn.

Row 3-9:             repeat 2.

Edging:                ch 1, sc around to beg, join.

Embellish!

Using little jewels you get from the craft store you can embellish however you’d like 😊.

***

Remember to use ones that will attach securely so baby cannot pick them off and eat them.  I’d recommend using the kind that attach with metal fasteners and using fabric glue

***

Congratulations!  You’re finished!

Tag your final creations on Instagram #elvisalohababyjumpsuit #stardustgoldcrochet

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Thanks for stopping by & Happy Hooking!

Crochet Design Tools Crochet Tips & Tricks DIY Video Tutorials

How to Create Crochet Ribbing – 5 Simple Patterns

Crochet ribbing consists of a combination of simple stitches, usually worked in the back loops only or using front or back post stitches to create ridges. All of these work beautifully, but I have a favorite…because not only does it looked knitted, it has a great stretch, like ribbing is intended to do.

Here I’ve compiled 5 different ribbing techniques – I hope you learn something new and can use them on all your beautiful projects! Please share with someone you think would like to learn new ribbing techniques.

At the end of the post – there is a video describing the different types and their benefits.

Also, these patterns can be worked using a top-down hat pattern or a bottom-up hat pattern.  Check out this awesome technique by TL Yarn Crafts on how to create ribbing using top down!  It’s a great video.

Abbreviations

chain (ch), single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc), slip stitch (sl st), back loop only (blo), front post half double crochet (FPhdc), third loop (3rd loop).

These instructions are for working flat back and forth rows.  Ribbing height can vary from hats to sweaters, so it is up to you how many chains you make to start.  When you finish, you will join the ends together and stitch them up.


Remember ~ when making these rows – the first stitch is always made in the same space as the turning chain.  X = X number of rows for your project.


Pattern 1 ~  Single Crochet Ribbing

Create your foundation chain using chains or foundation single crochet’s (or hdc, depending on which pattern you using).

Row 1sc in 2nd ch from hook and across entire row. ch 1, turn.

Row 2sc entire row (blo). ch 1, turn.

Rows 3 – X: Repeat Row 2 until your ribbing is the length you’d like.

Pattern 2 ~  Half Double Crochet Ribbing

When working hdc – the last stitch of the row likes to hide ~ so remember to count your stitches.  If you are short by one stitch – find that hiding last stitch and pull up the loop 🙂 Also, Half Double Crochet’s have a “3rd loop”  here is a pictorial on how to find that sucker.

Create your foundation chain using chains or foundation hdc.  To learn how to create a foundation hdc, check out this tutorial.

Row 1hdc in each chain(st) across row (if you started with a foundation hdc row, you’ll work these into the 3rd loops). ch 1, turn.

Row 2hdc (3rd loop) entire row. ch 1, turn.

Rows 3 – X: Repeat Row 2 until your ribbing is the length you’d like.

Pattern 3 ~  Combo Half Double Crochet & Single Crochet

Create your foundation chain using chains or foundation sc.  To learn how to create a foundation sc, check out this tutorial.

Row 1sc in each chain(st) across row (if you started with a foundation sc row, you’ll work these into the back loops only). ch 1, turn.

Row 2hdc (blo) entire row. ch 1, turn.

Row 3sc (3rd loop) entire row. ch 1, turn.

Rows 4 – X: Repeat Rows 2& 3 until your ribbing is the length you’d like.

Pattern 4 ~  Single Crochet & Slip Stitch

Make the sl st very loose – this ribbing will bunch up – Also remember to count these stitches, the last stitch of the slip stitch row will seriously hide from you! – p.s. – this is my favorite one ;).

Create your foundation chain using chains or foundation sc.  To learn how to create a foundation sc, check out this tutorial.

Row 1 – (if you started with a foundation sc row, skip this row and move onto Row 2).  sc in each chain across row  ch 1, turn.

Row 2sl st (blo) entire row. ch 1, turn (make these loose! they tend to bunch up and it will make it easier to create R3).

Row 3sc (blo) entire row. ch 1, turn.

Rows 4 – X: Repeat Rows 2& 3 until your ribbing is the length you’d like.

Pattern 5 ~  Front Post Half Double Crochet & Single Crochet Combo

This is a cool pattern – very versatile.

Create your foundation chain using chains or foundation sc.  To learn how to create a foundation sc, check out this tutorial.

Row 1 – (if you started with a foundation sc row, skip this row and move onto Row 2).  sc in each chain across row  ch 1, turn.

Row 2FPhdc around each sc from Row 1. ch 1, turn.

Row 3sc (in both loops) entire row. ch 1, turn.

Rows 4 – X: Repeat Rows 2& 3 until your ribbing is the length you’d like.

Thanks for stopping by & Happy Hooking!

❤ Tasha

~Inspire, Learn, Create

Crochet Free Crochet Patterns Seasonal Valentine's Day

Valentines Day ***FREE*** Crochet Pattern Bundle* – 2 for 1!

crochet overlay terra

This was a fun set to create.  Both patterns are made with the same heart pattern and pieced together in different ways.  Pattern includes full instructions on piecing them together and everything you need to create these fun accessories to spice up your Valentines Day – whether you are single or taken.

Pattern is available on Ravelry for FREEEEEEEEE! <3


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The inspiration is all things Valentine’s Day! It’s my favorite holiday! I hope you enjoy these. I’ve used 6 different yarns for these, and they are all readily available.

2 Patterns Inside
Includes photos to help you work the pattern

This is a holiday pattern bundle for a scarf and boot cuffs. I wanted to do something special and fun for Valentines and I hope you enjoy these patterns.

Sizing is up to you. You can create as many hearts as you’d like for the scarf, and the boot cuff is adjustable too – instructions are for what’s pictured, but there are also instructions on how to modify the sizes.