Neptune Beach Dress ~ FREE crochet pattern

The inspiration for this beach dress came from a stitch I came up with using Tunisian crochet.  It was an accident actually, but I ended up falling in love with the stitch, and I’m calling it Tasha’s Tunisian Ribbing 😀 I wanted to create a tube top, but no other stitches out there gave me what I needed, so I made one up!  It creates a two-color vertical ribbing that is stretchy and easy to create.  Win!  I hope you enjoy this pattern and learn something new!

If you have any questions about this pattern, please leave a comment below – I’m happy to answer any questions!

An AD-free printable PDF is available on Etsy too!

Full Video Tutorial is at Bottom of Post <3

I would love to see your creations from this pattern, if you have Instagram, Facebook, or a blog, please use hashtag @stardustgoldcrochet #stardustgoldcrochet.  Thank you!  Let’s get started!  😉  Please read all notes!

How to Read This Pattern

I write my patterns for readability and make them beginner friendly.  The words in bold are stitches and actions.  Stitch counts are noted in the *notes* sections within the pattern and/or in parentheses at the end of each row. Remember to count your stitches 😉.

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Suggested Yarn:

Lion Brand Heartland in Denali, Pink, Green & Purple Print I Love This Cotton! Yarn.

Sub for Heartland – Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Pink

Sub For I love This Cotton – Any ombre yarn colorway of your choice preferably cotton.

Yarn Details:

Lion Brand Heartland Denali – 251yds (230m)

I Love This Cotton – 180 yds (164 m)

Yardage Needed:

Lion Brand Denali – 2-3 skeins (500-600 yds (457 – 548 m)). I love This Cotton – 1 skein (180 yds (164 m)).

Hook Size:

5.5 mm (I-9) – double ended Tunisian crochet hook, regular 5.5 mm (I-9)



S/M/L/XL/XXL – Customization – Size adjustments are within the pattern.

Finished Measurements for Large:

If you follow the pattern exactly – you will get a size large – you can adjust the tube top to fit your perfect size, instructions are within the pattern.  Adjusting the circumference will automatically adjust the size of the mesh portion of the dress, the length of the dress is completely up to you :). Tube Top – Height 7.5-8” (19-22 cm)  Width Around 22” (55.8 cm)  without the lace. (the tube top stretches, fyi) Lace Area on Top – 5” (15.2 cm) Length from Top to Bottom – adjustable



TRS – Tunisian Rib Stitch / TLS – Tunisian Long Stitch / MC – main color / CC – contrasting color / ch – chain / ch sp – chain space / st(s) – stitches / yo – yarn over / sc – single crochet / beg – beginning / fwd pass – forward pass / rvs pass – reverse pass / lp(s) – loop(s) / sk st – skip stitch / *…* *repeat* instructions between *…*


Stitch guide:

sc – single crochet insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw through both lps on hook dc – double crochet yo, insert hook in indicated st, *yo, draw through 2 loops* – repeat from * to * until you have one loop left on hook.

Special Stitches

TLS – Tunisian Long Stitch – see video if this sounds confusing. fwd pass:  pull up a long loop with current loop on hook (3/4 – 1” tall), *insert hook in next st, yo and pull up a long loop* – *repeat* to end. rvs pass:  *yo, draw through 2 loops* – repeat from * to * back to beg of row. TRS – Tunisian Rib Stitch chain desired amount for foundation chain (in multiples of 2 for this pattern) Foundation Forward Pass (MC):  *insert hook in top of next chain and pull up a loop* – repeat from * to * to end of chain.  Below is an example of what your first foundation forward pass will look like. Foundation Reverse Pass (CC):  you will add your CC when working this reverse pass for the foundation row.  Turn hook then add CC over hook and pull through one loop (below). Ch 1. *yo, draw CC through 2 loops* – repeat from * to * until you reach the end and have only 1 loop left on the hook.  Don’t turn hook. Fwd Pass (MC):  let CC drop behind, pick up MC with your finger, *insert hook in next front bar, yo with MC and draw up a loop* – repeat from * to * to end.  Turn hook (remember to work into the last edge stitch by inserting through the 2 loops at the end – photo below)  Count your loops too to make sure you are on the right track. Rvs Pass (CC):  Drop MC, pick up CC and ch 1, *yo, draw through 2 loops*  – repeat from * to * back to beg.

You can slide it down and wear it as a skirt too 😍




To start…

We will use a Tunisian technique to create ribbing for the tube top.  Don’t be afraid of Tunisian crochet – it is almost easier than some regular crochet stitches believe it or not.  Please refer to the tutorial video for help with this ribbing stitch.  I will do my best to write it out in a way you can create without watching the video too, along with photos below.  So let’s get started!

NoteChaining 28 to begin will make a tube top that is around 8” tall (20 cm).  If you want to make this shorter, chain an even number, that when you subtract 1, will create multiples of 3.  (use 22, or 16 chains to start to make it smaller or 33 to make it taller).

Row 1 Foundation fwd pass (C1):  Chain 28 compete the foundation row for the TRS located in the stitch guide under special stitches. Row 1 Foundation rvs pass (C1):  complete the reverse pass of the foundation row for the TRS located in the stitch guide under special stitches. Row 2:  complete fwd pass according to special stitch guide under TRS. Row 2:  complete rvs pass according to TRS in stitch guide. Row 3 – to desired width:  Repeat Row 2.

NoteThe lace portion of the pattern will increase the circumference by around 5”. Below, I’ve recommended widths for the ribbing stitches to get the size you need – once you add the lace pattern to the end of the ribbing pattern, the total circumference of the tube top will be the number below + 5″ (12 cm) The ribbing stretches, so keep that in mind when deciding how wide to make your tube top piece.


S – 18” (45 cm) – M – 20” (50 cm) –


L – 22” (55 cm)  XL –  24”  (60 cm) – XXL – 26” (66 cm)




Lace and Joining:


NoteMake sure when working the lace, you have multiples of 3 to work into or the pattern will not work out properly, I explained this earlier in the pattern for casting on your foundation chain.

Row 1:  Cut CC, tie off.  Pick up MC, and ch1sc in each gap between vertical bars of each stitch – mine totaled 27 sc’s. Row 2:  ch 3, turn.  sk 2, sc in next st, *ch 2, sk 2, sc in next st* – repeat from * to * to end of row. Row 3:  ch 1, sc in 1st st, *sc 2 in ch sp, sc in next sc* – repeat from * to * to end of row (should end with sc in last stitch) (27) Row 4 fwd pass:   (TLS) ch 2, turnpull up a long loop, insert hook in 1st sc and pull up a long loop in each st across (make loops an even height and about .75 – 1” (1.9 cm) tall). Row 4 rvs pass:  (TLS) yo, draw through one loop, *yo, draw through 2 loops* – repeat from * to * until you have only one loop left on hook. Row 5:  ch 1, sc between each pair of front and back vertical bars to end of row. (27) Row 8:  Repeat rows 2 through 5 – 3 more times times, on the 3rd repeat – end after you complete row 2.



ch 1, bring sides together and slip stitch into the the two loops of each stitch.

Body of Dress:

Note:  Don’t cut your yarn.    

Rnd 1:  ch 3, sc in 1st  CC row, *ch 2, sc in next CC row* – repeat from * to * to end.  When you reach the lace portion of the dress, continue the repeat pattern from * to * in the top of each of those rows.  Join with sl st.

Rnd 2:  Ch 3sl st into 1st ch sp *ch 2, sc in next ch sp* – repeat from * to * to end of round

Join with sl st in 1st ch 2 from beg of rnd.  Mark beg st with st marker.

Rnd 3:  *ch 2, sc in next ch sp* – repeat from * to * to end of rnd.  Join with sl st at tbase of 1st ch 2 from beg of rnd.

Rnd 4:  ch 3, sc in 1st ch sp *ch 2, sc in next ch sp* – repeat from * to * to end of rnd.  Join with sl st in base of ch3 from beg of rnd.

Rnd 5:  ch 1, sl st in 1st ch sp.  ch 2, [*yo, insert hook in same ch sp, yo and pull up a loop* – repeat from * to * two more times, then yo pull through all loops on hook, ch 1]  – repeat from [ to ] to end of rnd.  Join with sl st in top of ch 2.

Rnd 6:  ch 3, *dc in ch sp, ch 1, sk 1* – repeat from * to * to end of rnd.    Join in ch sp from beg of rnd.

Rnd 7:  ch 3, *dc in top of dc from R6.  ch 1, sk 1* – repeat from * to * to end of rnd.  Join with sl st in ch 3 sp from beg of rnd.    

Rnd 8 – desired length:  Repeat round 7.

Congratulations!  You’re finished!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern!  If you love it, please share ;).  Any questions?  Please leave me a comment below, or just say hi!  Thanks so much for visiting my blog!

Happy Hooking,


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